Mike1951 wrote:ghentry wrote:I have a coat closet that has an opening of just 1/2" more than the width of that 10-gun Sentry model. I'm planning on putting it in the closet and seeing if I can lag bolt it into the studs. There would be just enough room to open the door, but not enough room to get any leverage on the safe to pry it out of the wall.
It worked very well for a friend of mine.
Some safes can be opened by peeling the skin of the body. Others can be opened by drilling at the end of one of the pins and using a hammer and punch to force the pins to retract. You will have made both of these methods more difficult by installing it in the closet.
Still not sure how difficult access would be through the door, though.
ghentry wrote:Does anyone have any idea how hard it will be to drill through the back of that safe?
It won't be extremely difficult. At most, you may need a titanium nitride or cobalt bit. Usually, the only hardened steel is in the area of the locking mechanism.
Well if you get a safe that is constructed or designed with thin bendable sheets of thin gauge metal, sure that would be a breeze to get into...Don't even have to mess with the door or heaven forbid external hinges...
I believe that my safe will keep those items in there safe from theft in most instances from the skills of the average, and above average burgler...I would not have bought it it gave me the slightest concern...
And the time involved with even getting to the point of getting in it would defy the timeline in how fast my nosey and very alert neighbors are when they know we are not there...
I always let one or more of them know about vacations and other times we will be a way for a while...They do the same for us...
So a layered defense and watchful friends keep the odds in our favor...
Ohh...
And someone mentioned about holes and the like to run dehumidifiers, and lights/alarm systems and all that...That those holes run the risk of allowing fire to sneek in and damage/destroy items in the safe...
I run one cord through the one hole I have in the back of mine...It was small enough that I have to splice the wall connector to the wire after I ran it, and the hole itself I sealed with as much flame retardant material I could fill the gaps with...
In the worse fires I have ever fought in my time in the local VFD's, stranger things have survived with very little or no protection from combustion...
So even the safes that may not have a very good fire protection rating do better than nothing...
