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>Will the sizing dies straighten this kind of thing out?

generally, yes; unless its so out of shape that you can't get it into the sizing die.

As long as there's no evidence of cracks or tears they should be ok. Just be more careful inspecting high pressure cartridges (9mm, 357mag, and anything bottlenecked).

>So you tumble finished ammunition?

I would recommend against doing that, however its one of those controversial things like carrying reloads. Lots of people say don't do it without any hard evidence of it being a bad idea.


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I was just at Cabelas in Buda - no pistol primers at all. What I saw was:

# shotshell primers
# small rifle
# large Magnum rifle

I've not used this supplier or Wolf primers, but they seem to have some in stock:


http://www.site.graceammo.com/Primers.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Some of the powder companies have downloadable PDF versions of those 'give away' databooks.

Both Hodgdon and Alliant have online data as well:
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/index.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

> I'd also really like to get a chronograph to check my consistency and check my work.

I have one. We can meet at Lone Star someday and chrono loads.


>The way you explain it, 9mm makes more sense, and I can better sort my ammo to make sure I use
>matching headstamps for my loads. 9mm means I can also get the deluxe carbide die set from Lee
>that includes the factory crimp die.

I highly recommend crimping as a separate step from bullet seating especially for taper crimps. I think that's what the Lee die set gives you, but I'm not sure since I generally use Dillon, Hornady, or RCBS.



> My next question: what kind of powder do y'all recommend for 9mm, and why? I know everyone has their
> preferences, but I'd like something good to start out with, having zero knowledge of powders. If it makes any
>difference, the rounds will be going through a standard-length Hi-Power (4.7" barrel). Several brands would be
>good, as I'm likely going to end up with whatever Cabela's has in stock and is suitable.

I like to experiment so I've tried several powders. For 9mm I've had good results with: blue dot, HS-6, WW231, Power Pistol, N340. I've also tried Titegroup and Longshot, neither of which I liked in 9mm.

My current powder of chose for 9mm (124gr and 147gr) is power pistol. It meters well (on a Dillon) and burns clean, though it tends to have muzzle flash. I also use it for 38spl +P

Slower powders (blue dot) generally require larger charges so its harder (or impossible) to double charge a 9mm case without overflowing, whereas with the fast powders (WW231, Unique, bullseye) you can fit double charges. Even with a Dillon press I have a light over the shell holder and check every case for proper powder load.

>reduce your powder charge by 10% when using Magnum primers

agreed. And I've been using them in 38/357 without a problem, but I haven't tried them in an auto pistol calibre.

>After a couple of years of getting around to it, I finally got a reloading kit. More specifically, I put it on my
>Amazon wish list, and someone bought it for me as a Christmas gift. I left a little up to fate there. It's a Lee
> 50th Anniversary Kit. I've still got to get some dies, a brass tumbler and media, a bullet puller, and a reloading
>manual, but I should have all that squared away by the weekend as long as I can put my hands on the stuff
>and some components locally.

cool.
I recommend at least 2 reloading manuals - I tend to use Speer and Hornady and plenty of visits to powder websites. I also recommend dial calipers (I have a spare set you can buy) and a case gauge.

> Anyhow, I'm debating on what caliber to start on. I figure that .380, rare as it is, would probably be a good place.
>This brings me to my real question: Where do y'all find small pistol primers?

I usually recommend 38/357 as the place to start since they are straight-walled cases and require a roll crimp rather than a taper crimp so they are easier to set up the dies for. Given your options I'd suggest the 9mm rather than 380 only because the case is a little bigger and it would be easier to learn on. Plus, when first adjusting dies, you may ruin a few pieces of brass - better the 9mm than the .380.

Cabelas in Buda sometimes has small pistol primers, though they are more likely to have magnum rather than standard.