The scary thing is that he doesn't even seem to be in a hurry!carlson1 wrote:MY GOAL. . . (This has been posted several times, but it is always worth watching)
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Return to “A few questions about some snubbies *update*”
- Sun Aug 22, 2010 4:08 pm
- Forum: General Gun, Shooting & Equipment Discussion
- Topic: A few questions about some snubbies *update*
- Replies: 19
- Views: 2767
Re: A few questions about some snubbies
- Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:55 pm
- Forum: General Gun, Shooting & Equipment Discussion
- Topic: A few questions about some snubbies *update*
- Replies: 19
- Views: 2767
Re: A few questions about some snubbies
Before you go buying a snubby revolver based on liking a 4" 686, I strongly suggest you rent and fire both of the guns you're considering. You'll find that shooting a lightweight snubby is MUCH different than a full size steel frame revolver.bnc wrote:I'm shopping around for my eventual CCW and am leaning towards a .38 revolver. Even though my only handgun right now is an auto, I think I may be a wheelgunner at heart, they just make sense and feel right.
So, the obvious "LCR or J-frame" debate is in full swing in my brain.
The LCR has a nicer trigger out of the box, at least the one I was looking at did. It has a lighter pull than the S&W and is easier to hold at the cocked position before firing (which I like). It is also a few ounces lighter than the Smith.
The Smith I was comparing to was a new, unlocked 642. It was clearly smaller than the LCR and had an overall better finish and felt like a higher quality gun. It was $75 more expensive than the LCR, fyi. The S&W is also rated for +P, not sure if the LCR is (or if I would want to use that ammo anyways)
Basically, I like the size and construction of the S&W and the LCR's trigger and weight.
The S&W's trigger was both heavier than the LCR's and harder to hold in the cocked position. Are these things that can be changed with a trigger job? I know a lighter spring can ease the pull, but I'm not sure if it is possible to make the stages of the trigger more apparent (maybe just lightening it would help to avoid pulling past the cocked position).
Is S&W phasing out the lock? If you order one, as in the store doesn't have the exact model you want, can you request a no-lock gun? I think a 442/642 or 438/638 with a trigger job might be the ticket. Granted, I haven't shot either, my only revolver experience is about 50 rounds through a rented 4" 686.
Thanks.
You might find that you like your current auto better, and can save some money as well, or you may find characteristics of one or both guns that show up during actual firing that make a difference to you but weren't apparent during showroom handling.
I strongly advocate "shoot before you buy." Almost anything looks pretty good on the dealer's counter.