TexasCHLforum.com

psijac wrote:[ Image ]

That works.

Now who's going to say, "But what if the BG comes in a beekeeper's suit?"

Excaliber wrote:

gringo pistolero wrote:

Excaliber wrote:http://www.corporatetravelsafety.com/ca ... -1150.html

That should work fine if they can't spread the door frame.

Only the multipoint deadbolts like the ones I cited in an earlier post address all types of attacks, and even they can be defeated with enough tools, time, and effort. They are priced accordingly, and are not portable by any means.

The simple auxiliary lock cited above mitigates unauthorized use of a key or moderate direct force applied without tools. These two methods of entry are the most common in hotels and motels.

There are auxiliary locks that will resist even a door prying attack, but they are very substantially bulkier, more expensive, and more difficult to apply and remove.

Nothing you can carry will give you everything at once. You need to identify the actual risks and balance effectiveness with affordability and portability.

Security is not an absolute. It's all about managing risk. No matter how much you do, you will never bring that risk to zero.

You assess your risks, decide on your risk tolerance, and apply whatever mitigation measures bring the risks within your tolerance or to the point where you reach the breaking point of your budget. From that point forward, you live with the residual risk.

gringo pistolero wrote:

Excaliber wrote:http://www.corporatetravelsafety.com/ca ... -1150.html

That should work fine if they can't spread the door frame.

Only the multipoint deadbolts like the ones I cited in an earlier post address all types of attacks, and even they can be defeated with enough tools, time, and effort. They are priced accordingly, and are not portable by any means.

The simple auxiliary lock cited above mitigates unauthorized use of a key or moderate direct force applied without tools. These two methods of entry are the most common in hotels and motels.

There are auxiliary locks that will resist even a door prying attack, but they are very substantially bulkier, more expensive, and more difficult to apply and remove.

Nothing you can carry will give you everything at once. You need to identify the actual risks and balance effectiveness with affordability and portability.

Security is not an absolute. It's all about managing risk. No matter how much you do, you will never bring that risk to zero.

That's just the way it is.

carlson1 wrote:

Excaliber wrote:

carlson1 wrote:

Excaliber wrote:One of the easiest and cheapest solutions for when you're in the house can be found here.

You don't need to feed it, take it to the vet, or clean up the yard after it. It works a lot better than you might think as a delay element, and it makes forcible entry neither quiet nor quick.

I think that makes it worth 20 bucks.

We use the door security bar on all of our doors including the bedroom door when we go to sleep. By the time they knock it down and the alarm is going off I am praying I can be up by then.

This is also easy to pack up and carry with you to a hotel.

Something like this is easier to pack and works plenty well on solid doors, especially those with steel frames.

Less expensive too.

Not to mention it's a lot easier to get past your friendly TSA agent with than with the barricade bar.

carlson1 wrote:

Excaliber wrote:One of the easiest and cheapest solutions for when you're in the house can be found here.

You don't need to feed it, take it to the vet, or clean up the yard after it. It works a lot better than you might think as a delay element, and it makes forcible entry neither quiet nor quick.

I think that makes it worth 20 bucks.

We use the door security bar on all of our doors including the bedroom door when we go to sleep. By the time they knock it down and the alarm is going off I am praying I can be up by then.

This is also easy to pack up and carry with you to a hotel.

Something like this is easier to pack and works plenty well on solid doors, especially those with steel frames.

CHLLady wrote:

Schwarf wrote:I agree with a lot of what I'm hearing. Would still like to know if anyone can recommend a company to install door armor. My goal isn't to make a fortress, but to buy a few extra seconds at two in morning if someone tries to break in, so I can get armed.

They sell the door armor products at Lowes, call them and ask for an installer.

I think you are doing the right thing. They quite often kick in doors, why make it easy for them? Maybe they will break their ankle trying to kick your door in. Lol.

Good luck! Taking home security seriously is to be applauded!

The folks at Lowes won't have a clue.

If you want a quick education and some insight into good options, trot down to your local locksmith shop and chat with the owner for a bit. He cleans up the aftermath of a lot of break ins and break in attempts. He sees first hand what works and what doesn't.

I'm pretty sure you'll find it eye opening.

CHLLady wrote:

Schwarf wrote:I agree with a lot of what I'm hearing. Would still like to know if anyone can recommend a company to install door armor. My goal isn't to make a fortress, but to buy a few extra seconds at two in morning if someone tries to break in, so I can get armed.

They sell the door armor products at Lowes, call them and ask for an installer.

I think you are doing the right thing. They quite often kick in doors, why make it easy for them? Maybe they will break their ankle trying to kick your door in. Lol.

Good luck! Taking home security seriously is to be applauded!

Replacing a wooden door and frame with a steel door and frame and Grade 1 commercial locking hardware (which you won't find at Home Depot) with a deadbolt that extends at least 1 inch into the frame will give you a huge upgrade at reasonable cost. Adding stationary bolts (studs that protrude from the hinge side of the door into the frame) are another easy addition that takes a lot of stress off the hinges during a forcible entry attack and significantly increases the strength of the door system.

If you want to really get serious, use a multipoint deadbolt that secures the door to the frame at multiple points. Examples can be seen here and here and here. They're not cheap but they'd give an intruder fits and the residents plenty of time to move to safety and prepare to engage if necessary.

Keep in mind that it's the door system that you have to consider. It consists of the door, frame, lock(s), lock strike(s), hinges, and surrounding wall structure. The weakest element defines the strength of the system because that's what will fail first when attacked by brute force and failure of any one element will allow a breach and rapid entry.

One of the easiest and cheapest solutions for when you're in the house can be found here.

You don't need to feed it, take it to the vet, or clean up the yard after it. It works a lot better than you might think as a delay element, and it makes forcible entry neither quiet nor quick.

I think that makes it worth 20 bucks.