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FWIW
I have tried a number of different ways and it seems to me that there are two different types of draws - street/tactical and competition, but time wise I cannot clock a significant difference between the two and think that unless you are at the level where can making a living shooting competitively, you are better off sticking with a street/tactical draw or something leaning heavily in that direction.

I seem to have settled into a hybrid of sorts leaning towards street/tactical. The main thing is the foundation which is the grip – thumb as far down and a very small pause here can pay off big (Step 1). From there I think the important thing is to get the muzzle level and pointed at the threat or target area, which I do by purposely trying to level the muzzle while it is still in the holster and while I am pulling it up and out of the holster with also some forward pressure towards the target (Step 2). By doing this a couple of things happen very quickly; the muzzle, as soon as it clears the top of the holster, pops to level and goes perhaps 8 inches in front and maybe 8 inches above the holster all at the same time - this is where my support hand seems to naturally want to meet the gun (Step 3). At this point the muzzle is level, both hands are on it, and it is one third the way to my extended line of sight. I now trace with my muzzle a dead strait line from where the muzzle is to where I want it – line of sight extened (Step 4). As long as I feather my stop when extended, the sight does cast down to target or roll up to target - like a Harrier jet rising and moving forward at the same time without changing the angle of the fuselage. The shortest distance between any two points is still a straight line. Once the muzzle is is level, I straight line it to my line of sight at extention. This works well for me in competition and I think it would serve me well on the street. As far as my support hand, I don’t stop anywhere or purposly place it on my bell. I just flatten it out and bring it across my body (flat palm facing chest and halfway between belly button and nipples), then it angles out to meet grip and rolls over when extended.

I know some insist you can make better semi-sighted shots (while extending) if the gun is already high up and level before extending. I have not found that to be the case for me. As always, your mileage may vary. The method I use seem to get the sight on target pretty quick and without bobbling.
The importance of getting the muzzle level from a street/tactical standpoint is that it allows you to engage the target earlier if it rushes you and you can take the slack out of the trigger while still being pointed at the threat, but before your sights are actually on the target. The presentation would be done a little differently if the threat was already close – draw straight up and rotate horizonal without pushing forward as early and angling body away from threat. For me, close is double arm length or tighter.