Homemade Holsters!

[gigag04]

Thanks! As my stitching improves I may make a video or something. Particle's vids on YouTube are nice but he uses an industrial seeing machine. Hand double saddle stitching is stronger but more tedious (I think most machines are using a lock stitch at best). I really should have used darker thread on the lower one.

[beardking]

Here's how I use the modified vacuum former, which I'm now using as a vacuum membrane press.

Cut the Kydex/ABS to fit the gun.

What thickness kydex are you using in that press? And with the membrane vacuum press that you use, am I correct in my thinking that you don't clamp the kydex into any sort of frame? Just the membrane is in the frame, correct?

[alpmc]

What thickness kydex are you using in that press? And with the membrane vacuum press that you use, am I correct in my thinking that you don't clamp the kydex into any sort of frame? Just the membrane is in the frame, correct?

I'm using 0.060 ABS.

No, the ABS/Kydex is cut in a small piece to fit the gun just as you would if you were using a clamshell type press and once heated is placed, by hand, over the gun resting on the vac table.

Yes, just the membrane is attached to the frame. When the membrane comes into contact with the top of the vac table it sucks down hard thus pressing and forming anything it has sandwiched in between.

The membrane itself not heated in any way but you must choose a heat resistant material that will tolerate the heated ABS/Kydex. I have also tried putting one layer of the foam on top of the gun and the ABS, it seems to work better without the foam.

Hope that helps.

[BobCat]

Ordered some Kydex yesterday, looking for leather, will be quiet now until I have a picture to post. Thanks for the inspiration and how-to.

[alpmc]

Ordered some Kydex yesterday, looking for leather, will be quiet now until I have a picture to post. Thanks for the inspiration and how-to.

Ok, I'll be looking forward to seeing your pictures!

Here is the OWB holster I made for a friend today. It's for his Glock 27.


Next time I will try to extend the leather beyond the barrel. I was measuring the leather cut to the ABS and not the gun! Learning curve.


I also stained this holster with an entire.....tipped over...bottle of stain!

My major consideration for this gun is that it does not have much of a grip. I had to trim the ABS at the point where the trigger guard and the grip come together in order to get a finger comfortably around the grip. I had to use a modified tactical cut and dip the leather down behind it.

[gigag04]

Here are some in progress pics of a IWB holster for a Colt Commander. The final photo is close to the finished product. Tomorrow, time permitting, I will sand/burnish the edges, rivet the straps and snaps on, and seal it.

[alpmc]

giga04 - Very nice!!! Your stitching and the boning look fantastic! I like this style of holster as well and I have seen it's style in many other holster designs, but how did you come up with the design? (how or where does the piece on the top come from, is it part of the back?) I can tell from the first shot that the holster does not seem to be formed yet. Did you stitch the outer edges, form the gun, then stitch the rest? In my feeble mind I was picturing forming the gun first then stitching. What color did you dye this one with? What are the steps? I really must try an all leather holster. (sorry for all the questions)

Please post a final photo of the complete holster, I would love to see how it turns out!

[gigag04]

I'm on my iPhone at the barber shop but I'll get you the answers and some photos tonight. Thanks for the kind words!

[gigag04]

giga04 - Very nice!!! Your stitching and the boning look fantastic! I like this style of holster as well and I have seen it's style in many other holster designs, but how did you come up with the design? (how or where does the piece on the top come from, is it part of the back?)

I looked at a Milt Sparks VMII and tailored it slightly to be my own. It is it's own part and covers about the same amount on the back as the front. Reinforces the mouth for reholstering.

I can tell from the first shot that the holster does not seem to be formed yet. Did you stitch the outer edges, form the gun, then stitch the rest? In my feeble mind I was picturing forming the gun first then stitching.

Most of the online videos show stiching, then forming. My problem was that I'm not sharp enough to guestimate the stitch groves where they will follow the contours of the gun. Some holster makers, a la Tucker HF1, just do an arc that doesn't follow the gun (I'm sure it is a very capable, accurate, and strong stitch though...). The holster is MUCH easier to stitch when it is flat, and unformed. Thus, I do the outer seams after the glue dries. Then I wetform, and grove out the lines I want to stitch. Give it a day to dry and then stitch the lines. I'm sure to the experienced this is blasphemy, but it works.

What color did you dye this one with? What are the steps? I really must try an all leather holster. (sorry for all the questions)

The main body is Fiebings Pro Oil light brown. The straps and trip is done in Fiebings Pro Oil black. I used daubers (have yet to figure out affordable air supply for the airbursh I got in off of Amazon).

Please post a final photo of the complete holster, I would love to see how it turns out!

Will do, hopefully early next week as work, school, engagement, puppy training, time with Kido, training, and working out allow!

[beardking]

What thickness kydex are you using in that press? And with the membrane vacuum press that you use, am I correct in my thinking that you don't clamp the kydex into any sort of frame? Just the membrane is in the frame, correct?

I'm using 0.060 ABS.

No, the ABS/Kydex is cut in a small piece to fit the gun just as you would if you were using a clamshell type press and once heated is placed, by hand, over the gun resting on the vac table.

Yes, just the membrane is attached to the frame. When the membrane comes into contact with the top of the vac table it sucks down hard thus pressing and forming anything it has sandwiched in between.

The membrane itself not heated in any way but you must choose a heat resistant material that will tolerate the heated ABS/Kydex. I have also tried putting one layer of the foam on top of the gun and the ABS, it seems to work better without the foam.

Hope that helps.

Where did you get the roofing membrane that you used?

I actually rigged up a makeshift vacuum table this past weekend and I was pleasantly surprised at the results. The only problem that I have is that I had to staple the kydex to the frame so I had to use a full 12x12 piece. Being able to use the membrane would be nice so I can make use of the leftovers. :)

[alpmc]

Where did you get the roofing membrane that you used?

I'm a scavenger by nature...not to be confused with a dumpster diver...won't go that far! I only needed a small piece about 22" x 15" to fit the frame. I went to a local roofing company and asked if they had a small piece laying around that they would sell me and the guy said to hold on a sec.......he returned with a piece that was 3' x 4' claiming it was going to be thrown away and let me have it without charge! You'd be surprised what you can find just by asking. If scavenging is not to your liking, I would assume it can be purchased at a roofing supply or online, try a Google search on roofing rubber membrane for flat roofs.

The material I have looks and feels like a thin rubber tire inner tube.

[alpmc]

I actually rigged up a makeshift vacuum table this past weekend and I was pleasantly surprised at the results. The only problem that I have is that I had to staple the kydex to the frame so I had to use a full 12x12 piece. Being able to use the membrane would be nice so I can make use of the leftovers. :)

The following is an excerpt from a PM, but I believe it might help:
I built the vacuum former about 10 years ago. It's working surface is 20" x 12" so it's not really that big. It's what I had sitting around so I use it as a vac membrane press.

If I were to build a brand new vacuum MEMBRANE press, I would build it larger perhaps about 25" x 15". Mine is too small.....I had a hard time working with large guns like the XD's.

If I were to build a brand new vacuum FORMER just for holsters, I would make it smaller. I would research the average gun length, let's say it's 8", and the average gun width, let's say it's 5", then I would build my vac forming table about 10" x 6'!! That's just a guess!

As I have said before, I don't think a vacuum former is cost effective for kydex holsters. Too much high priced material is wasted for repeating projects. Making a regular clamping device.....two pieces of wood with foam and clamps is the best way to start off before venturing into other methods. My original intention for showing my method was just meant to be an alternative....I don't necessarily think it's a good place to start!

[beardking]

Where did you get the roofing membrane that you used?

I'm a scavenger by nature...not to be confused with a dumpster diver...won't go that far! I only needed a small piece about 22" x 15" to fit the frame. I went to a local roofing company and asked if they had a small piece laying around that they would sell me and the guy said to hold on a sec.......he returned with a piece that was 3' x 4' claiming it was going to be thrown away and let me have it without charge! You'd be surprised what you can find just by asking. If scavenging is not to your liking, I would assume it can be purchased at a roofing supply or online, try a Google search on roofing rubber membrane for flat roofs.

The material I have looks and feels like a thin rubber tire inner tube.

Oh, scavenging is definitely to my liking. Half of the utilitarian things built for use in my garage are built from scraps scavenged from housing developments around my area. :) And, after I posted my question about where you got your roofing membrane, I remembered that "HEY!! I work in an architectural office which has a construction department all its own and that construction department is currently building numerous restaurants", so now I just need to get over to that side of the building and ask one of the guys to pick me up a scrap of roofing. :)

About your suggestion on doing the clamping press, I actually made one of those previously, but because of the (scavenged) material I used, it didn't hold up to the task. After that I started looking up better designs and came across vacuum forming the stuff and I wanted to try it myself. That's why I'm so interested in your setup. :)

[JacksBack]

I started my first leather, and first homemade holster last night. I liked how everything turned out considering it was my first attempt. Here are the end results.

It is on 8oz veg tanned hide and I used a double needle saddle stitch by hand on the stitching.






I havent yet decided how I want to finish or dye the leather, but as of right now it is still drying.

[wharvey]

I was going to start a thread on this very topic to show off my last two creations. I ordered some kydex from Texas Knife supply and had every intention of making a hybrid but since I don't carry a plastic gun hated to subject my carry piece to it. Found a source for horsehide, Zack White Leather Company, so decided to go on and make a traditional one, out of leather (horsehide). I use to do quite a bit of leather work as a hobby but it had been years. Thankfully I still knew where all my tools were.

This first holster, for carrying my little snub nose was very easy to make.



I patterned it loosely on the De Santis Nemisis. Basically I wet the leather, folded it over the gun, boned just enough to determine my stitch line and went from there. I put the flesh side out to grip the pocket better. No other blocking on this one. I've seen pocket holsters blocked and boned but can't figure out why. This way it looks like I'm carrying a wallet, not a gun.

The second holster is for my S&W 3rd Gen.



Again horsehide was used. I based my design on both my Kramer Speed Scabbard and the Sparks VM2. Picking and choosing to my liking. To get the color I first sprayed oxblood dye and then sprayed acorn brown over that. This way the holster is brown with just a tad bit of reddish tint. After years of doing it with dubbers, I have to say that airbrushing leather dye is the best way to go.

(BTW, for anyone wanting to airbrush leather finishes, it doesn't take much of a compressor to work an airbrush. Any compressor with a tank will work and Harbor Freight's deluxe airbrush works fine for leather work. Not that it would hurt it I don't want to use my Badger 105 for leather finishes.)

The J type belt clips were fashioned from 0.09 kydex. I also put a piece of formed kydex under the re-enforcement strap around the top of the holster. I didn't do a full block and bone. Being a IWB I didn't want the holster to grip the gun too tightly since the tension on the belt is going to greatly contribute to the tightness anyway.

Over all I'm pleased with these. Perhaps not the quality of one of the custom holsters but after using them to carry for a while, I have to say they will certainly do the job. AND no six month wait.

gigag04 - From reading your posts it sounds like you made yours in the same basic way I make mine. BTW, if you start stitching really thick leather you will have to drill first. When I do that I use my overstitcher to mark the leather and then drill the holes with a drill press. Not real fast but about the only way to get the stitches to look good on real thick leather. Also, I didn't groove my stitch line on these. Sometime I do, sometime not.