M1 Garand sighting in today.

[gmckinl]

I've ordered 10 clips... from Amazon... if they don't feel good I'll order some from Brownells. Clips are cheap... $20 x 10, so not a big deal.

Too late now, but for next time... they are much cheaper from the CMP. Twenty bucks gets you 25 clips from them.

[C-dub]

Remember guys, not to use commercial ammo too much in our Garands. Hard on the operating system from what I hear so I stick to the surplus stuff.

True... The ammo designed for he M1 runs at a lower pressure than the common hunting ammo of today.

You can buy and put in or have an adjustable gas plug installed.

Cabela's does sell some of the "garand" 30.06 in bulk too. The CMP stuff is a very good buy!

Jeff B.

Whoa whoa whoa! This is the first I've heard of this, but granted, I'm new to M1's.

I've only put 40 rounds through it so far. All Remington 150 grain I think. What kind of problems are we talking about here?

[gmckinl]

Remember guys, not to use commercial ammo too much in our Garands. Hard on the operating system from what I hear so I stick to the surplus stuff.

True... The ammo designed for he M1 runs at a lower pressure than the common hunting ammo of today.

You can buy and put in or have an adjustable gas plug installed.

Cabela's does sell some of the "garand" 30.06 in bulk too. The CMP stuff is a very good buy!

Jeff B.

Whoa whoa whoa! This is the first I've heard of this, but granted, I'm new to M1's.

I've only put 40 rounds through it so far. All Remington 150 grain I think. What kind of problems are we talking about here?

http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?opt ... d&catid=39" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Jeff B.]

That's a great link... there's quite a bit of discussion you'll find about the M1 and various loads. I'm not an "expert", so have followed the advice that I've read and stuck to surplus Greek ammo. I've saved my brass so I can re-load it (another hobby coming up). Read that link and use your serch engine, you'll find all kinds of info, some contradictory about commercial ammo and M1's. If you've only shot 40 rounds and it was a light load, your probably fine.

I've got one M1 that's a "shooter" and will get an adjustable gas plug, the other is more of a safe queen.

Jeff B.

[C-dub]

Remember guys, not to use commercial ammo too much in our Garands. Hard on the operating system from what I hear so I stick to the surplus stuff.

True... The ammo designed for he M1 runs at a lower pressure than the common hunting ammo of today.

You can buy and put in or have an adjustable gas plug installed.

Cabela's does sell some of the "garand" 30.06 in bulk too. The CMP stuff is a very good buy!

Jeff B.

Whoa whoa whoa! This is the first I've heard of this, but granted, I'm new to M1's.

I've only put 40 rounds through it so far. All Remington 150 grain I think. What kind of problems are we talking about here?

http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?opt ... d&catid=39" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Great. Thank you.

[carrydave]

a few things on these rifles...

1. Only use ammo thats ok for the garand ( surplus or american eagle marked for the m1 .cal)
A. If one wanted to shoot ammo with more pressure look at the shuster adjustable gas plug.

2. these rifles need grease NOT oil. I reccomend tetra gun grease, or lubriplate 130a.

A. Any white lithium grease will work. I buy tetra because I like the smell, if you dont care go to autozone and pick up some coastal grease that stuff works great too.

You want to liberally grease all moving parts except inside the gas system! that stays dry.

Apply a good amount in the channel the operting rod rides in, also. remove the bolt and grease the channels where the bolt rides, and put a touch of grease on the locking lugs.

grease trigger group as well. I use an artists paint brush to apply grease.

This is very important M1 .30cal and m14 rifles must be greased or you will wear it out(frog lube or clp/oil will NOT work) you should be able to see that its well greased

3. zero the rifle at 100 yards (for me its 9 clicks up) always bottom out your sight when your done shooting) Turning in a m1 with the rear sight still sticking up was grounds for being griped out by the armorer im told.

Once you find that elevation for 100 y mark it on the drum.


happy shooting! enjoy one of the finest rifles ever made.

[texasmusic]

always bottom out your sight when your done shooting) Turning in a m1 with the rear sight still sticking up was grounds for being griped out by the armorer im told.

The peep is unprotected by the rest of the rear sight when it is up, prone to being bent/destroyed.

[The Annoyed Man]

Remember guys, not to use commercial ammo too much in our Garands. Hard on the operating system from what I hear so I stick to the surplus stuff.

True... The ammo designed for he M1 runs at a lower pressure than the common hunting ammo of today.

You can buy and put in or have an adjustable gas plug installed.

Cabela's does sell some of the "garand" 30.06 in bulk too. The CMP stuff is a very good buy!

Jeff B.

Whoa whoa whoa! This is the first I've heard of this, but granted, I'm new to M1's.

I've only put 40 rounds through it so far. All Remington 150 grain I think. What kind of problems are we talking about here?

http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?opt ... d&catid=39" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

FWIW, shooters of M1A/M14 rifles have this same concern. It has been suggested that one ought to avoid shooting GMX bullets in these rifles for this very reason because the solid guilding metal bullets can generate higher chamber pressures which can bend an op-rod. Likewise, higher pressure loads should be avoided.

[C-dub]

Everyone, THANKS for all the info and educating me on my new rifle. It is greatly appreciated!!!

I'm definitely not putting any more modern stuff through it. Is any 150gr labeled "M2 Ball" okay or does it need to specifically say for the Garand? Checking around I find some Korean M2 Ball milsurp stuff and some other stuff that specifically says Garand ammo.

[olafpfj]

Was at the FW cabelas today and there were cans of M1 Garand ball in abundance. Around $400 for 500 rds.

[C-dub]

Was at the FW cabelas today and there were cans of M1 Garand ball in abundance. Around $400 for 500 rds.

That's not too bad. Thanks. I may get over there in a week or two to check that out. I need to get some before going to see my dad because he's going to want to shoot it.

[Hamourkiller]

I think you should fill the paper work out and buy some HXP from the CMP. It is 100 USD per 200 rounds in a 30 cal ammo can.

You can then pull the ball bullet and seat a 150 gr soft point bullet in it's place. This makes for more accurate ammo and is great for hunting. I like the Nosler 150 BT, but any 150 gr hunting bullet will do. Also a good re-load is 48 to 50 grs of 4064 under a 150 gr bullet.

I think you enjoy will the rifle and shooting the normal Winchester and Remington 150 gr Factory loads will not harm the beast. If you want to be sure, pull a bullet and weigh the powder. If the charge is over 52 grs then I would not shoot it, if it is from 48 to 50 grs it is right in the groove for the Garand. 50 to 52 grs is pushing my limit. But the US army Spec for M2 AP Ball is up to 55 grs of powder under a 165 gr AP round. The M2 Ball spec is up to 50 grs of powder under a 150 gr ball. The volume or weight of the powder relates directly to abuse of the op rod.

[C-dub]

I think you enjoy will the rifle and shooting the normal Winchester and Remington 150 gr Factory loads will not harm the beast.

Hold on a second. Are you talking about modern ammunition? Does anyone concur with this?

[9mmfan]

Just to add more food for thought on a ton of other information, you might want to read up on the Korean surplus ammo. I am by no means an expert, but the ammo bearing the "KA" headstamp is all corrosively primed, as is my understanding. If'n it is headstamped PS, it should not be corrosive, but there are certain lots that some folks have reported some problems. I just glanced at that, as the only Korean M2 that I bought was found to have the dreaded "KA". This was not something I wanted to deal with, so's I gave the bandoliers worth to a buddy that didn't care one way or the other. He was kind enough to give me a cartridge belt and some other miscellany when I got my rifle, so I thought it was the fair thing to do. I ramble.

Just to wrap up, remember
KA=Korrosive Ammo
PS=Probably Safe (If you google "PS Korean M2 problems, you will undoubtedly find the exhaustive list of lot numbers. I think it was over to the CMP forums that I saw it.)

+1 on the current (hopefully) Greek surplus from the CMP. $98 plus shipping ('round $11, if I am remembering correctly), for 200 rounds, give or take, shipped in an ammo can.

[C-dub]

Just to add more food for thought on a ton of other information, you might want to read up on the Korean surplus ammo. I am by no means an expert, but the ammo bearing the "KA" headstamp is all corrosively primed, as is my understanding. If'n it is headstamped PS, it should not be corrosive, but there are certain lots that some folks have reported some problems. I just glanced at that, as the only Korean M2 that I bought was found to have the dreaded "KA". This was not something I wanted to deal with, so's I gave the bandoliers worth to a buddy that didn't care one way or the other. He was kind enough to give me a cartridge belt and some other miscellany when I got my rifle, so I thought it was the fair thing to do. I ramble.

Just to wrap up, remember
KA=Korrosive Ammo
PS=Probably Safe (If you google "PS Korean M2 problems, you will undoubtedly find the exhaustive list of lot numbers. I think it was over to the CMP forums that I saw it.)

+1 on the current (hopefully) Greek surplus from the CMP. $98 plus shipping ('round $11, if I am remembering correctly), for 200 rounds, give or take, shipped in an ammo can.

Thanks. I've seen that Korean stuff and they were pretty honest about the corrosion issue. I figured I'd stay away from the possibly or probably corroded stuff.