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First experience with dirty ammo

I've always heard the phrase "Dirty Ammo", but last weekend I learned what it meant. I fired three boxes (150 rounds) of 45acp from American Eagle. That would be those red boxes at Carters Country. Not only did I have residue on both my fore arms, my Glock started failing to feed from the residue after about 100 rounds. I say "failed to feed" instead of jammed because it wasn’t that the cartridge got out of align or snagged, the slide just wasn’t returning fast enough to push the round out of the clip. I actualy had to take the slide off and rub the gunk off the rails to be able to shoot the third box.

Yet another reason to reload,

PS Im not complaining, I know I got what I paid for, I'm just surprised at how dirty ammo can be and passing the lesson on to other newbie.

WOLF is by far the worst...and is lightly loaded so its only about 75-80% of a quality round, even though it costs about 60%

My 1991A1 eats it up, but the recoil is very light compared to good ammo, finicky firearms would definitely stovepipe or have problems

You're right it can leave a mess but I've used American Eagle - 9mm (147 gr) for practice for some time and haven't found it to be a problem as long as I used a dry lubricant.

i have used American Eagle .45acp and they do burn pretty dirty.. when i was done shooting my 2 boxes of 50 rds boxes my fore arms was covered in black stuff right now im trying UMC's 250 rd box from academy..

I started packing a cheapo can of generic brake parts or carbuerator cleaner in the range bag after i got hold of some dirty relaods. Stick the hose in the nozzle and wash down the parts. A light spritz with some spray lube and start all over.

Good Stuff no matter how dirty your ammo is.
http://www.slip2000.com/carbonkiller.html

carlson1 wrote:Good Stuff no matter how dirty your ammo is.
http://www.slip2000.com/carbonkiller.html

Can you get it in a store near you?

lrb111 wrote:I started packing a cheapo can of generic brake parts or carburetor cleaner in the range bag after i got hold of some dirty relaods. Stick the hose in the nozzle and wash down the parts. A light spritz with some spray lube and start all over.

+1


Been doing this for years.



Warning: Make certain your firearm's grips, sights (if painted) and other parts will withstand the chemicals.

Dirty ammo doesn't bother me. It just means cleaning will be more enjoyable.

nuparadigm wrote:

carlson1 wrote:Good Stuff no matter how dirty your ammo is.
http://www.slip2000.com/carbonkiller.html

Can you get it in a store near you?

No. You have to order it. I was very careful at first, but now I use it on everything including the 340PD. I drop my 1911 parts in, leave them about 5 minutes, pull them out, wipe them down, and lube everything. I have also been using some new lube call Gun Butter. I like it also. It makes cleaning easier also. http://www.gunbutter.com/

Thanks for the info, I may give carbikiller a try, hopefully my reloads will not be so dirty.