TexasCHLforum.com

Now that I've got .45 acp and .380acp down, I would now like to learn .38 special.
The two acp calibers were quite an adventure. I learned recently the importance of the crimp. (I believe it's a taper crimp, but someone tell me if I'm wrong. I always get the roll crimp & the taper crimp confused.)

Here's my question regarding the .38 special: Would it be wise to get a factory crimp die for the .38 special as I did for the other two calibers I reload? If so, do I need a roll crimper or taper crimper?

Dad will be asking me what I want for Christmas soon. I'm channeling my gun-related wants in his direction, as this otherwise Christian man takes a peculiar, hedonistic delight in purchasing gun-related items.

Taper crimp for semi-auto pistols, roll crimp for revolvers. I recommend the Lee Factory crimp die, although any major brand die will give a good crimp. The Lee is a good choice because not only is it a good crimping die, it is also a low cost crimping die. You will have to buy an extra one anyway unless you seat and crimp at the same time, which I do not think is a good choice.

edited to change the last sentence.
It could have been misleading. I do not recommend seating and crimping at the same time.

+1 on the Lee Factory Crimp/final sizer die.... best bang for buck is to buy the Lee Deluxe pistol die set that includes carbide size/decap and factory crimp die.

Easy test to ensure proper crimp:

Take loaded round and place bullet down on table, press with both thumbs on primer end of case using as much force as you can (I lift myself to my toes). Recheck case OAL if no change crimped properly.

Disassmble a loaded round and inspect the bullet. If the crimp line has fully broken through the jacket material, too much crimp.

A suggestion.

It is a good idea to head stamp sort your 38 as well. If you have any S&B head stamp you might consider giving them to someone else! I don't reload but my husband does. When I was shooting SSR (to get my IDPA Expert classification), I heard from my husband what a pain it was unless the brass was sorted.

I can't say I've ever had problems with a particular brand of case.

But if using a roll crimp, case length becomes an issue. While straight wall cases seldom stretch enough to worry about, variations in case length will affect the amount of crimp applied.

Personally, if trimming to a consistent length isn't practical, I would be inclined to sort into groups by case length, perhaps in .010" variations. Then minor adjustments on the crimp die can be made for each group.

I have the Lee and RCBS roll and taper crimp dies, they work OK.

But what is a bit weird on my part is the use of Lyman 310 dies for a really great roll crimp every time for the .44 special and .45 Colt caliber.

Of course you have to use a reducer bushing to use the 5/8X30 dies in a modern press with its 7/8X14 thread holes.

I use a Lee bullet seater die to seat the bullet in a prearrange depth in the brass case...then the 310 roll crimp die.

44and45

If you throw away S&B cases I'd sure like to have them....

I have loaded for quite a few years... never found a need to sort pistol cases.

Also, Redding makes the best roll crimp dies I have found... but the bullet seating die will also roll crimp satisfactorily.

Thanks

Chuck

CompVest wrote:A suggestion.

It is a good idea to head stamp sort your 38 as well. If you have any S&B head stamp you might consider giving them to someone else! I don't reload but my husband does. When I was shooting SSR (to get my IDPA Expert classification), I heard from my husband what a pain it was unless the brass was sorted.