How difficult is it to reload .223/5.56 anyway?

[UpTheIrons]

I'm (finally) about to order my first AR-15 (probably a Spike's Tactical middy). Being the brass hog that I am, I've been stockpiling cases for a while, but don't know how to proceed. With the coming jump in ammo prices, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to expand my reloading to the .223 family.

I know that in loaded ammo steel cases are much cheaper (by about $100/1000), but brass cases are reusable, so the extra cost is mitigated somewhat by their reloadability. My question is how difficult is it, really. I've seen videos of automated case annealers, hear people say that a high-end progressive is the only way to go, and hear from others that there's no way they'd get involved in the black magic of reloading something at those high pressures that cycles an action so close to one's face.

I know the truth is somewhere in between, so I'm asking those of you who DO reload .223/5.56 - is it really as hard as some have made it out to be? Or is it just another rifle caliber?

My experience is .45 ACP and 9mm, and I'm venturing into .308 next (for a bolt gun), but .223 has me scratching my head, and I'm not sure it should.

Thanks for any guidance you have.

[Beiruty]

Do you reload for plinking or matches, or for accuracy?

[Sputz]

Its not very hard just a few extra steps involved. Its more time consuming but as long as you are slow and steady you shouldn't have any problems. I use both a progressive and single. On new crimped brass I use the single to pop all the primers out and then after I reload them in the progressive I use a factory crimp die in it.

Sputz

[NcongruNt]

It's like reloading for anything else. It's a rifle cartridge, so you have the whole added lube/resize/clean/trim/prime time suck to deal with, but that's nothing different than .308. I load mine in a single stage, for what it's worth.

Just like with anything else, pay attention and use data from a reputable source. I've fired right around 1000 reloads (mostly workups, in fact) in .223 through my AR, and have had no issues at all.

I reload it for several reasons: cost, accuracy, and custom loads. My 55 grain plinker rounds end up costing 26 cents/round, about half what good-quality ammo costs. I have a load using Vihtavuori N135 that gave sub-MOA grouping (5 round string) out of my rifle during my last set of workups using that powder. You can't get that in stores. Also, reloading allows me to develop rounds that simply aren't available commercially. I've developed a nice hunting round using Speer 70gr Semi-Spitzer soft points and Ramshot TAC that has given me nice results.

[UpTheIrons]

Right now, I'm loading pistol ammo for plinking. When I get to rifle loading, it will be for accuracy and hunting, along with some plain ol' plinking ammo. Since the rifle I'm looking at has a 1:7 barrel, I may use this gun for occasional short-ish range Hill Country whitetail hunting with 70+ grain bullets. With most shots being under 100 yards, that size bullet is not an issue for me.

So what's the point of annealing cases? Is that to extend their useful life? Have any of you tried that, or do you just reload until the case neck splits (which, IIRC, is what happens after several reloads of .223 brass).

I was about to order a 1000 round box of XM193 to go with the rifle, thinking that that would probably supply me with much of the brass I'd need for the forseeable future, when added to my current stockpile.

NconcruNt, your data and info makes me think I can probably do this without stressing out too much. I'm very careful with my load data, using only data from published manuals, so I should be good to go. I'll just have to (dang it!) buy a single stage press to add to the bench.

Thanks for the info!

[BobCat]

Case neck annealing is to extend the life of the brass. I have Lake City (ex military) bought once-fired and loaded an additional 5 times, and only once in a great while get a neck crack.

Plan is that when neck cracks get to more than 2%, anneal or scrap the cases. My brass is nowhere near that.

The XM193 you propose to buy is LC brass - same as I buy once-fired. Good idea to get it - prices were going down last I looked, might be going back up now, or soon.

Your 1:7 barrel gives you excellent versatility. It will stabilize everything from 55 through 80 grains, but if you load the heavier bullets you may not want to load them mag length - the 80's shoot real well loaded long, close to the lands, and single loaded.

Have fun!

Regards,
Andrew

[UpTheIrons]

Thanks for the hints, BobCat. Along with the others, I think your words have just about pushed me into reloading 5.56!
Now where's that pile of cash that was laying around here somewhere???

[Beiruty]

since you have 1:7 I suggest to tri prvi 75 gr BTHP match bullet. I paid 51 cents/rd shipped. I may try it this Saturday

[medalguy]

I reload lots of 5.56. Here's something to think about. I load milsurp cases, so I have to swage the crimped primers. I deprime, FL size and trim the first time in the Dillon 1200 trimmer which does size and trim in one operation. Slick and fast. Then I swage the primer pockets in the Dillon Super Swager, which is also very fast and easy. Finally I reprime in an RCBS Autoprime which is bench mounted. I like this tool because I get a better feel for seating the primer all the way than I do on the press.

Finally I put the primed brass back in my Dillon, charge it, seat the bullet, and crimp using a Lee FCD in the last hole in the press. I then tumble about 15 minutes in clean cob to really make the brass shine and remove any smudges or lube.

If I'm reloading brass that doesn't have the crimped primers, I simply omit that step. I generally get about 6 reloads out of a case and then toss it. I figure 5.56 brass is cheap enough that I don't want to hassle with annealing cases. If I was shooting something scarce, like 7.62 Tokarev, I might feel differently.

Don't worry too much about the annealing. I don't know anyone who anneals 5.56 brass. You can buy good LC milsurp for 5 cents anywhere, and it's good for 5-6 loadings, so figure 1 cent per loading for brass cost. Keep the load away from the top of the chart and it should last at least that many loadings.

By the way, Wideners has XM855 green tip 2009 manufacture ball ammo on sale, 300 round cases for $119 (http://www.wideners.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

[BobCat]

Agreeing with medalguy and embarrassed not to have mentioned the crimped primers.

You only have to remove the crimp once, and it can be removed with a swaging tool, or simply with a countersink or deburring tool - either by hand or in a drill at low speed.

[UpTheIrons]

Great info again - thanks for the hints on crimp removal. I just ordered 1000 rounds of XM193 from Natchez for $300 (http://www.natchezss.com/index.cfm). Wish I could afford two boxes at that price.

Another thing - what are y'all using for primers? I've only used Winchester in my pistol loads (trying to keep things simple), and I know there are some bargains out there sometimes (like Powder Valley's recent 10K blowout of TulAmmo primers), but I'm a little reticent to jump into something like that sight unseen.

Thanks, guys!

[BobCat]

I think you will be very happy with the XM193. And that is an *excellent* price.

Please take my primer recommendation with a grain of salt. I load for Highpower and confidence in your ammunition and rifle is important for removing excuses. In the end, every shot I fire that isn't a ten or an X (and there are too many) is me, twitching or grabbing the trigger. Not being able to blame the ammunition is important.

On the recommendation of very good shooters, I use CCI BR4 primers for the slow-fire prone stage, and CCI 400 small Rifle primers for all the others. Very possibly I'm spending more than I need to.

I used to use Winchester Small Rifle primers until "everyone" convinced me they are too soft, and I'd start piercing primers. Never happened, but I was swayed by the opinions of those whose scores are much higher than mine.

I've "heard" that Wolf primers are very, very good and consistent. Rumor is that David Tubb uses them, so they must be top-level competitive. They are much cheaper than the CCI primers, but I'm jingoistic enough to want to "buy American" when I can.

There is quite a bit of good advice out there on loading .223, since it is what almost everyone who shoots Service Rifle shoots. You are in for a real good time, learning, trying things, and whenever you shoot little-bitty cloverleafs or close-to-one-hole groups, with ammo you assembled, you will grin until you face aches.

Regards,
Andrew

[CDH]

The only thing I find special about reloading 223 over other rifle cartridges is that the smaller neck results in more problems with bridging (jamming) when using extruded powder.

Most people use ball powder for this cartridge with good reason.

[medalguy]

Use a ball powder such as H335 and you'll never have a problem.

Just thought I'd mention sources of brass if anyone needs it. I just bought another 10K of 5.56 LC brass over on AR15.com for 42.00 per K shipped. Not a bad price. I can't see paying more than 50 per K ever. There's just too many guys selling brass to pay more than that.

And as far as annealing cases-- Paying 4 cents per case and I get about 6 loadings out of a case before I toss it makes annealing not worth it. Just my opinion.