proper method

[WEC]

I am right-handed and I think I have smaller hands than the average shooter so depending on the gun (like a 1911), the slide release is a little too far forward for me to reach up with my thumb. In order to operate it, I'd either have to rotate the gun slightly in my right palm or use my support (left) hand thumb to engage the slide release. So for that, I'm more confident at pulling the slide back and then letting it chamber a round. For the Sig Sauer P series, the slide release is toward the rear of the frame and is easily accessible with my right thumb, so I do use the slide release with my Sigs.

It does cause me a bit of concern because of the whole concept of consistency and singularity of training. Maybe I should adopt one method and stick to it.

[WildBill]

It does cause me a bit of concern because of the whole concept of consistency and singularity of training. Maybe I should adopt one method and stick to it.

Either that or keep your 1911s and give me all of your Sigs.

[LittleGun]

I was taught to pull the slide back; not to use the slide release lever. The reason has nothing to do with wear on the gun, but technique. My instructor teaches pulling back the slide as part of a malfuntion drill. Pulling the slide back after a slide lock is like finishing a malfuntion drill. Not worrying about the slide release is one less thing to worry about when under stress.

[geoelectro]

I have had a 1911 about 6 weeks now. I discovered the slide lock release method shortly after getting it. I just assumed it was OK to use it that way. In fact, it's very cool! Drop your empty mag, slide the new one in, pop the release!

Anyway, using the slide manually makes a lot of sense and I will certainly begin a new habit.

Thanks for the info...

Geoelectro

[WildBill]

Revert to your training - agreed 100%. Lose fine motor skills - well, I'm not convinced. I've been under severe stress in various fire-fights and haven't noticed any loss whatsoever in fine motor-skills. I've been able to drop the safety, see the sights, press the trigger, do mag-changes, drop the slide or bolt etc quite fluently when it counted - and I think that most everyone can quite easily reach this level of competence, so I don't consider myself unique in this regard in the slightest.

Andy C - As far as losing fine motor-skills, I am quoting what I have read. The majority of CHL holders, including myself, have no experience in an armed confrontation. I have not been in "various fire-fights" so I will have to defer to your first-hand experience.

[USA1]

as a side note ,
with my Bersa .380 , when the slide would remain open after the last round fired .
it would automatically release when a fresh magazine was inserted , chambering the next round .

i really liked that .

[joe817]

Wow. That's kinda neat.....or really disconcerting, if you're not expecting it!

[WildBill]

Personally, I believe that the racking technique only came about once the Glocksters realised that it's too easy to miss their slide-stop, and so started the legend of gross motor-skills

I have found that the slide-stop on my Sig P239 is hard to operate with the thumb. When it was new, it required a lot of force to activate. As the gun gets more use, it has become easier to use. I don't think I have an especially weak thumb.

[Bunkins]

Either is fine, although using the slide release does cause wear..

Although really, if your shooting for tactical training ( not just out plinking, I never go out with the intention of plinking with my carry guns though ), there should never be a time when the slide locks back. You should always have a round in the chamber.. When you chamber the last round in the mag, you should be dropping the empty mag and putting a fully loaded mag in.. This way you are never left without a round in the chamber. It makes reloading quicker ( 1 less action ), it also trains you to become fully aware of your ammo situation. If your gun holds 7 in the mag, plus 1 in the chamber, you shoot 7 times, pop in a new mag, shoot 7 more times, then pop in another mag.

You can also look at that as a personal protection issue. When it's time to reload, if you are confronted you have a round you can fire off while in the process of reloading. You are always protected.....

Something else I like to do to stay mindful of my ammo situation is to load up several mags a few nights before I plan to shoot, with snap caps.. Just place them in random area's.. When I go shoot, I dont remember how the mags are loaded. So it's a surprise when I get a FTF. After a few times of that a FTF doesnt slow you down, you just know to rack the slide and keep going, all while keeping count of how many times you've pulled the trigger, not how many times the gun went "boom"

[Dave01]

I have found that the slide-stop on my Sig P239 is hard to operate with the thumb. When it was new, it required a lot of force to activate. As the gun gets more use, it has become easier to use. I don't think I have an especially weak thumb.

This. I had the same problem with my Sig P226 when it was new. It took both thumbs to release the slide via the lever. I got in the habit of pulling the slide back to chamber a round because it took less effort.

Dave

[TLE2]

I've used the "pull back" method, but if you hold on to the slide too long, the round will not load. Basically, I "slow-rolled" the slide.

Since then I just release the slide lock.

[fickman]

The graph of available (potential) energy from contracting a spring and allowing it to recoil is exponential, not linear. Each new centimeter of movement adds more energy to the total amount of potential energy stored in the spring than the centimeter before it did. The final couple of centimeters of movement on your slide could actually represent a significant percentage of the spring's overall force. It's best to allow the spring to utilize 100% of its capabilities to properly load the next round.

I also agree that the slide stop is (with most 1911's) metal on metal with no lubrication. The notch has a slight lip jutting out, and this can be broken by repeatedly forcing the stop down.

For longevity and reliability purposes, I would advocate pulling the slide back in all controllable situations.

[USA1]

The graph of available (potential) energy from contracting a spring and allowing it to recoil is exponential, not linear. Each new centimeter of movement adds more energy to the total amount of potential energy stored in the spring than the centimeter before it did. The final couple of centimeters of movement on your slide could actually represent a significant percentage of the spring's overall force. It's best to allow the spring to utilize 100% of its capabilities to properly load the next round.

I also agree that the slide stop is (with most 1911's) metal on metal with no lubrication. The notch has a slight lip jutting out, and this can be broken by repeatedly forcing the stop down.

For longevity and reliability purposes, I would advocate pulling the slide back in all controllable situations.

can you explain that in a way dummies can understand ?