I've finally gone and done it.

[NcongruNt]

After a couple of years of getting around to it, I finally got a reloading kit. More specifically, I put it on my Amazon wish list, and someone bought it for me as a Christmas gift. I left a little up to fate there. It's a Lee 50th Anniversary Kit. I've still got to get some dies, a brass tumbler and media, a bullet puller, and a reloading manual, but I should have all that squared away by the weekend as long as I can put my hands on the stuff and some components locally.

The good news: I've been collecting my spent brass on and off for a couple of years now, in anticipation of purchasing a reloading setup. I have a decent little stockpile of 9mm brass, some .380, some 9x18, as well as a bit of 7.62x54R.

An interesting observation about 7.62x54R: from what I've found, new brass costs more than loaded factory ammo. S&B (yes, brass and boxer-primed) runs somewhere just under $1/round as loaded ammo in quantities of 20. The only brass I can find to purchase new is from Midway, and even in quantities of 500 it runs $1.23/round.

Anyhow, I'm debating on what caliber to start on. I figure that .380, rare as it is, would probably be a good place. This brings me to my real question: Where do y'all find small pistol primers? They seem to be made of the same unobtanium that .380 range ammo is made of these days.

[Target1911]

A good bullet supply....always super fast shipping......even tho you didnt ask for it

http://www.montanagoldbullet.com/home.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Primers
http://www.natchezss.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; if they are out you can set it up to get an email when they get more.

[Mike1951]

Buying Norma or Lapua components is unnecessary splurging.

You can buy Prvi Partizan ammo for $15/20 and save the brass or buy Prvi brass for $41.99/100 or $199.45/500. It may not always be in stock, but it shows how little you can pay.

http://www.grafs.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is out of both right now.

http://www.aimsurplus.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; shows $11.50/20 on the ammo but is also out.

Some calibers are just cheaper to buy surplus as along as it's available.

[lrb111]

http://www.wideners.com/itemview.cfm?dir=278|284" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; They have a few under the 6 different brands.
I had to break down and order from Midway last time. They might have to backorder, but sooner or later you get some.

[Oldgringo]

Reloading used to be cost effective, many years ago when shot cost $8/bag, and I'd shoot maybe a 1,000 shotgun rounds in a weekend. Since then, I've never found reloading of the common handgun loads to to be particularly cost effective; however, it is something to do and I do have .380 ammo, et al, when others don't.

We put 11,000 miles on the truck and RV this past summer. I looked for and found both large and small pistol primers by looking in every gun store we passed. BTW, there are some Wal-Marts that carry reloading components. The point is - look everywhere and sooner or later, you will find some primers.

Enjoy your new pastime.

[ghostrider]

>After a couple of years of getting around to it, I finally got a reloading kit. More specifically, I put it on my
>Amazon wish list, and someone bought it for me as a Christmas gift. I left a little up to fate there. It's a Lee
> 50th Anniversary Kit. I've still got to get some dies, a brass tumbler and media, a bullet puller, and a reloading
>manual, but I should have all that squared away by the weekend as long as I can put my hands on the stuff
>and some components locally.

cool.
I recommend at least 2 reloading manuals - I tend to use Speer and Hornady and plenty of visits to powder websites. I also recommend dial calipers (I have a spare set you can buy) and a case gauge.

> Anyhow, I'm debating on what caliber to start on. I figure that .380, rare as it is, would probably be a good place.
>This brings me to my real question: Where do y'all find small pistol primers?

I usually recommend 38/357 as the place to start since they are straight-walled cases and require a roll crimp rather than a taper crimp so they are easier to set up the dies for. Given your options I'd suggest the 9mm rather than 380 only because the case is a little bigger and it would be easier to learn on. Plus, when first adjusting dies, you may ruin a few pieces of brass - better the 9mm than the .380.

Cabelas in Buda sometimes has small pistol primers, though they are more likely to have magnum rather than standard.

[Oldgringo]

ghostrider wrote:

Cabelas in Buda sometimes has small pistol primers, though they are more likely to have magnum rather than standard.

I found a 1,000 Magnum LP primers in a good gun store in Cody, WY last October. The store owner told me, as have others on this forum, to reduce your powder charge by 10% when using Magnum primers. IOW, take the primers when you find 'em.

[ghostrider]

>reduce your powder charge by 10% when using Magnum primers

agreed. And I've been using them in 38/357 without a problem, but I haven't tried them in an auto pistol calibre.

[NcongruNt]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Yes, a set of calipers is also on my list of things to get, I just forgot to list them in my post. I'd also really like to get a chronograph to check my consistency and check my work. I think that's another paycheck or two away, though.

The way you explain it, 9mm makes more sense, and I can better sort my ammo to make sure I use matching headstamps for my loads. 9mm means I can also get the deluxe carbide die set from Lee that includes the factory crimp die.

I'll try to make my way down to Cabela's this weekend and see what they have available.

My next question: what kind of powder do y'all recommend for 9mm, and why? I know everyone has their preferences, but I'd like something good to start out with, having zero knowledge of powders. If it makes any difference, the rounds will be going through a standard-length Hi-Power (4.7" barrel). Several brands would be good, as I'm likely going to end up with whatever Cabela's has in stock and is suitable.

It looks like there's a decent selection of bullets in stock, at least from the site, so hopefully they have a decent selection in the store. It looks like Sierra, Hornady bullets at least are to be had.

[Oldgringo]

You might want to bookmark this site:

http://www.handloads.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A whole lot of manuals are incorporated into this site, not the least of which is mucho load data for various calibers.

[ghostrider]

> I'd also really like to get a chronograph to check my consistency and check my work.

I have one. We can meet at Lone Star someday and chrono loads.


>The way you explain it, 9mm makes more sense, and I can better sort my ammo to make sure I use
>matching headstamps for my loads. 9mm means I can also get the deluxe carbide die set from Lee
>that includes the factory crimp die.

I highly recommend crimping as a separate step from bullet seating especially for taper crimps. I think that's what the Lee die set gives you, but I'm not sure since I generally use Dillon, Hornady, or RCBS.



> My next question: what kind of powder do y'all recommend for 9mm, and why? I know everyone has their
> preferences, but I'd like something good to start out with, having zero knowledge of powders. If it makes any
>difference, the rounds will be going through a standard-length Hi-Power (4.7" barrel). Several brands would be
>good, as I'm likely going to end up with whatever Cabela's has in stock and is suitable.

I like to experiment so I've tried several powders. For 9mm I've had good results with: blue dot, HS-6, WW231, Power Pistol, N340. I've also tried Titegroup and Longshot, neither of which I liked in 9mm.

My current powder of chose for 9mm (124gr and 147gr) is power pistol. It meters well (on a Dillon) and burns clean, though it tends to have muzzle flash. I also use it for 38spl +P

Slower powders (blue dot) generally require larger charges so its harder (or impossible) to double charge a 9mm case without overflowing, whereas with the fast powders (WW231, Unique, bullseye) you can fit double charges. Even with a Dillon press I have a light over the shell holder and check every case for proper powder load.

[NcongruNt]

Thanks for the offer and recommendations. I really appreciate it.

And yes, the factory crimp die is a separate step from seating. The inclusion of that die is what makes that set "deluxe".

I have one other minor question....

Do y'all run your brass through the tumbler before or after you've deprimed the cases? My inclination is to do it after depriming, but I was wondering if there was a reason not to do so.

Thanks!

> I'd also really like to get a chronograph to check my consistency and check my work.

I have one. We can meet at Lone Star someday and chrono loads.


>The way you explain it, 9mm makes more sense, and I can better sort my ammo to make sure I use
>matching headstamps for my loads. 9mm means I can also get the deluxe carbide die set from Lee
>that includes the factory crimp die.

I highly recommend crimping as a separate step from bullet seating especially for taper crimps. I think that's what the Lee die set gives you, but I'm not sure since I generally use Dillon, Hornady, or RCBS.



> My next question: what kind of powder do y'all recommend for 9mm, and why? I know everyone has their
> preferences, but I'd like something good to start out with, having zero knowledge of powders. If it makes any
>difference, the rounds will be going through a standard-length Hi-Power (4.7" barrel). Several brands would be
>good, as I'm likely going to end up with whatever Cabela's has in stock and is suitable.

I like to experiment so I've tried several powders. For 9mm I've had good results with: blue dot, HS-6, WW231, Power Pistol, N340. I've also tried Titegroup and Longshot, neither of which I liked in 9mm.

My current powder of chose for 9mm (124gr and 147gr) is power pistol. It meters well (on a Dillon) and burns clean, though it tends to have muzzle flash. I also use it for 38spl +P

Slower powders (blue dot) generally require larger charges so its harder (or impossible) to double charge a 9mm case without overflowing, whereas with the fast powders (WW231, Unique, bullseye) you can fit double charges. Even with a Dillon press I have a light over the shell holder and check every case for proper powder load.

[SRVA]

The reloading guy will be at the George R. Brown gun show this weekend. Prices are still high but much lower than the $60 per thousand peak in August. Reloading is still a way to save money on ammunition even though the prices of components have escalated.

Steve

[lrb111]

For someone running Lee equipment, I consider this to be my best source. http://www.factorysales.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Less wallet strain, too.

I tumble first, before deprime, because I don't want to clean primer pockets, at all.

[Oldgringo]

For someone running Lee equipment, I consider this to be my best source. http://www.factorysales.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Less wallet strain, too.

I tumble first, before deprime, because I don't want to clean primer pockets, at all.

Actually, I tumble before and after depriming. I don't want dirty MT's in my dies and I don't want greasy cartridges in my shooters. Did I mention that I have the spare time?