TexasCHLforum.com

nitrogen wrote: Please link me to where you got that stock replacement.

That looks EXACTLY like something I'd do.

I haven't bought one yet.

http://www.tickbitesupply.com/mos.html#mosstock" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

mr.72 wrote:

bdickens wrote:Ya know, despite your best protestations to the contrary, you are rapidly becoming a "gun nut."

Don't fight it. Give in and join with us on the dark side!

bdickens wrote:

mr.72 wrote:

bdickens wrote:Ya know, despite your best protestations to the contrary, you are rapidly becoming a "gun nut."

Don't fight it. Give in and join with us on the dark side!

IMHO, WE are not the "dark side". We are the good guys.

WarHawk-AVG wrote:Some people say the M44 kicks like a mule because its lighter than the 91/30...but the 7.62x54R is equivalent to the .30-06 so its gonna kick anyway

Handloads with Varget and 123gr bullets make it a pretty tame shooter, with plenty of energy for anything you're going to hunt in Texas, and also cut down on sticky bolt issues. Most of the 180gr surplus stuff out there is intended for the longer barrels, and is a lot hotter than I care to use for target shooting, and FMJ is kinda silly for hunting anyway. OTOH, the surplus ammo doesn't cost much more than unprimed brass, and the bullet puller is a good workout. A well-under-max load of any good powder behind the 180s is still not going to kill your shoulder like the original load does, and can easily be accurate to 200yds for target shooting.

Check out http://www.surplusrifle.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; forums for cheap and easy trigger jobs for the Mosins, as well. I'd skip the shim tricks on the Mosin pages there, and go for the adjustable screw setup described in the forums.

Ah, here's the one: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... 28&t=50969" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

With my limited experience, I've found after removing EVERY bit of cosomoline, it dramatically reduces sticky bolt. Another cause in Mosin-Nagants can be the ammo itself. Most people myself included love that 1954 vintage bulgarian surplus, but occasionally it will cause a slight overpressure to develop in the chamber (sometimes splitting the brass), and make that bolt as immobile as Houston traffic. I completely agree, the more Mosins, the better, as I'm up to a M91/30 and 2 M44s.
The ATI stock is really better suited to the carbine as helps redistribute the recoil forces more evenly across your shoulder, though, 7.62x54R is still a full power cartridge and can after several hours at the range, destroy your shoulder.

What?? Page 2 and no one has mentioned the King of Mosins? The M39 Finn!
http://www.gunsnammo.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the antique ones delivered to your door.

Vic303 wrote:What?? Page 2 and no one has mentioned the King of Mosins? The M39 Finn!
http://www.gunsnammo.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the antique ones delivered to your door.

$200+!!!!!!???

I can get a Mosin 91/30 for $100 that still shoots dang well and is still in dang good shape!

KD5NRH wrote:

WarHawk-AVG wrote:Some people say the M44 kicks like a mule because its lighter than the 91/30...but the 7.62x54R is equivalent to the .30-06 so its gonna kick anyway

Handloads with Varget and 123gr bullets make it a pretty tame shooter, with plenty of energy for anything you're going to hunt in Texas, and also cut down on sticky bolt issues. Most of the 180gr surplus stuff out there is intended for the longer barrels, and is a lot hotter than I care to use for target shooting, and FMJ is kinda silly for hunting anyway. OTOH, the surplus ammo doesn't cost much more than unprimed brass, and the bullet puller is a good workout. A well-under-max load of any good powder behind the 180s is still not going to kill your shoulder like the original load does, and can easily be accurate to 200yds for target shooting.

Check out http://www.surplusrifle.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; forums for cheap and easy trigger jobs for the Mosins, as well. I'd skip the shim tricks on the Mosin pages there, and go for the adjustable screw setup described in the forums.

Ah, here's the one: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... 28&t=50969" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is the solution for the having to beat the bolt open after firing!!!!!!!

http://www.surplusrifle.com/articles200 ... /index.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

WarHawk-AVG wrote:

KD5NRH wrote:

WarHawk-AVG wrote:Some people say the M44 kicks like a mule because its lighter than the 91/30...but the 7.62x54R is equivalent to the .30-06 so its gonna kick anyway

Handloads with Varget and 123gr bullets make it a pretty tame shooter, with plenty of energy for anything you're going to hunt in Texas, and also cut down on sticky bolt issues. Most of the 180gr surplus stuff out there is intended for the longer barrels, and is a lot hotter than I care to use for target shooting, and FMJ is kinda silly for hunting anyway. OTOH, the surplus ammo doesn't cost much more than unprimed brass, and the bullet puller is a good workout. A well-under-max load of any good powder behind the 180s is still not going to kill your shoulder like the original load does, and can easily be accurate to 200yds for target shooting.

Check out http://www.surplusrifle.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; forums for cheap and easy trigger jobs for the Mosins, as well. I'd skip the shim tricks on the Mosin pages there, and go for the adjustable screw setup described in the forums.

Ah, here's the one: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... 28&t=50969" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is the solution for the having to beat the bolt open after firing!!!!!!!

http://www.surplusrifle.com/articles200 ... /index.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In absentia of an actual burr, an easy solution would be to simply use a bronze chamber brush, bore cleaner, a length of cleaning rod, and a drill (set to a low speed and used sparingly) to clean out the chamber (but NOT the barrel). In my experience, the problem tends to progress over time, with lacquered ammo. The chamber brush will get all that junk out of there.

As for brushes, I don't recall what I got for it originally. From the specs I can find, the case ranges in size from 0.487 inches at the rear (just in front of the rim) to 0.4571 just in front of the taper. It then tapers down to 0.3358 at the neck. A .45 cal brush should do the trick for most of it, and you can use something along the lines of a .32 cal (or smoosh in a .38 cal) brush for the neck portion of the chamber, being careful not to push past the end of the chamber.

WarHawk-AVG wrote:

Vic303 wrote:What?? Page 2 and no one has mentioned the King of Mosins? The M39 Finn!
http://www.gunsnammo.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the antique ones delivered to your door.

$200+!!!!!!???

I can get a Mosin 91/30 for $100 that still shoots dang well and is still in dang good shape!

1. Almost any M39 (or M28) will out-shoot almost any 91/30.

2. How many Finns rifles were made, versus how many Russians?

A Finn at $200 is a bargain; most $89 91/30s are overpriced.

NcongruNt wrote:As for brushes, I don't recall what I got for it originally. From the specs I can find, the case ranges in size from 0.487 inches at the rear (just in front of the rim) to 0.4571 just in front of the taper. It then tapers down to 0.3358 at the neck. A .45 cal brush should do the trick for most of it, and you can use something along the lines of a .32 cal (or smoosh in a .38 cal) brush for the neck portion of the chamber, being careful not to push past the end of the chamber.

I've been using a .308 chamber brush; the big part won't get into the neck without a lot of resistance, so you'd have to really work at it to go past the chamber.

KBCraig wrote:

WarHawk-AVG wrote:

Vic303 wrote:What?? Page 2 and no one has mentioned the King of Mosins? The M39 Finn!
http://www.gunsnammo.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the antique ones delivered to your door.

$200+!!!!!!???

I can get a Mosin 91/30 for $100 that still shoots dang well and is still in dang good shape!

1. Almost any M39 (or M28) will out-shoot almost any 91/30.

2. How many Finns rifles were made, versus how many Russians?

A Finn at $200 is a bargain; most $89 91/30s are overpriced.

I love my M39. I'm planning to pick up some 91/30 to compare accuracy.

Surprisingly, the Hungarian M44's can be pretty accurate too, if you extend the bayo first.

Kinda off topic, but if ever have an opportunity to safely fire a M44 at night. Try it. The basket ball size flame is spectacular!

Vic303 wrote:Surprisingly, the Hungarian M44's can be pretty accurate too, if you extend the bayo first.

My Polish M44 (Radon '53) is amazingly accurate for such a short, light, full-power gun. It has the best trigger I've ever felt on a milsurp gun. The Poles are generally considered the best of the breed.