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G26ster wrote:

armanius wrote:

brhalltx wrote:

Divided Attention wrote:They sent me the new "updated" spring.

Is there a visible difference between the original spring and the "updated" spring?

I asked Sig customer service guy and he told me that there is only one spring for the P238. I asked about a flat spring that others have referred to, and he said there is no such thing for the P238.

There is a visible difference between the "original" spring and the later "flat" spring. Perhaps this CS guy was not around when the original spring was replaced, and he's correct, there is NOW only one spring for the P238. To check yours, remove the spring and see if the coils are flat, not cylindrical. If flat, you have the latest one.

I have a P238 that came with the original round wire spring. I had lots of failures to eject and dented cases. I called Sig and they sent me a replacement, still round wire spring. With less than 200 rounds on that second spring, it collapsed and would not cycle the slide. Another call to Sig got me the flat wire spring and it's been 100% since then.

I use Eezox to clean and lube all of my guns.

Duplicate post.

The only FTE problems we have had with our P238 was indeed caused by limp-wristing. Ours seems to like anything we feed it, HPs, ball, flat, etc., the only problem we've ever had with it was an occasional casing hitting us in the face. Sig replaced the ejector and it's much better but still throws casings unpredictably, at least we don't get bonked.

Give it a little more time and focus on your grip - being so small I think it's more of a challenge to hold in a good shooting position.

mrvmax wrote:Limp wristing is the most common cause I have seen for failures. It could be a plethora of other things but I would try a firmer grip first.

It is my opinion that the basic design of the P238 is particularly sensitive to limp-wristing, whether it is a Sig P238 or a Colt Pocketlite Mustang (they are essentially the same gun). I have an older (1985 vintage) Colt Government .380 which has an all steel frame and weighs considerably more than either the P238 or the Pocketlite, and it is sensitive to limp-wristing too.

The Annoyed Man wrote:

mrvmax wrote:Limp wristing is the most common cause I have seen for failures. It could be a plethora of other things but I would try a firmer grip first.

It is my opinion that the basic design of the P238 is particularly sensitive to limp-wristing, whether it is a Sig P238 or a Colt Pocketlite Mustang (they are essentially the same gun). I have an older (1985 vintage) Colt Government .380 which has an all steel frame and weighs considerably more than either the P238 or the Pocketlite, and it is sensitive to limp-wristing too.

Yes, you are depending on the recoil operation to cycle the slide, from a relatively wimpy 9mm short round. Even a little bit of limp wrist will cause failure to eject and a smokestack. I was videoing my wife shooting her new 238 a while back, and she swore she was not limping it, but when we played back the video you could see the difference quite clearly. I think the problem in her case was that as soon as the trigger broke she was relaxing her whole hand, not just the trigger finger. A little dry fire practice seems to have made a great deal of difference.

AndyC wrote:

armanius wrote:

AndyC wrote:That's why we take the guns to the range to test-drive 'em and see what they like, see what needs tweaking or fixing. Don't panic about it yet - parts just might need to "mate" together properly.

When you say "FTE", can you be more specific? What exactly happens? We can help you troubleshoot if we know what the symptoms are indicating.

I took lots of pics. I will upload them on Sunday.

FTE, aka failure to eject -- the spent shell gets stuck between slide and the barrel, and sometimes the next round in the magazine joins the entanglement.

Yes, I know what a failure-to-eject is, but there are varying degrees and each with different causes. I also wanted to make sure we weren't talking about another "FTE" - a failure to extract, as people use the terms synonymously when they're anything but.

When the shell is stuck between the slide and barrel, is it horizontal ie. parallel with the barrel or is it sticking up with the case-mouth pointing outwards in a classic "smokestack" configuration?

The second round is usually an indication of a weak magazine, but not exclusively - we'll handle that as we go along.

Yes, I did just that above. Sorry. It's fixed now.

Thanks for the tidbits. I'll try that when I get home. I do have five rounds of dummy plastic ammo.

The shell is stuck on a horizontal position. No smokestack.

I may have a few more questions as gun parts knowledge is definitely not my forte!

I shot a couple of IDPA matches with the ejector on my 1911 completely gone, and all I really noticed was that the cases were just kind of popping out of the slide and dropping.


I wonder if the new flat spring has a different rate than the old round one, improving ejection.

Another thing I have noticed with my lil' gun... When I first got this little gun If I go over anxious and did the "death grip" and put my support thumb against the slide too forcefully it would cause ejection problems because of my thumb rubbing. I am guessing this could be a problem in guys with larger hands rather than "limp wristing" maybe overgripping could be an issue?

armanius wrote:I cleaned it pretty good before the first shoot and then cleaned it again after the first shoot. I use the MPro7 cleaner and then the MPro7 oil. I will give it extra lube this time around and see if it does better. Any recommendations for a better cleaner or lube/oil/grease?

Slide Glide? Not sure if I've ever seen that anywhere. Who makes it?

I've used the MPro7 cleaner with good luck on my Sigs. As for lube, Sigs tend to prefer grease over oil (I personally prefer grease on on my handguns, tends to stay in place better, especially if I'm carrying them). Slide Glide is just one one option, its produced and marketed by Brian Enos (http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html); but as I say there are a lot of quality greases out there out there. I've even talked with folks that use MobilOne grease or similar with satisfactory results.

I've had my Sig P238 and original spring (not flat spring) that came with it and shot various types of ammo with it (FMJ's and HP's) and have yet to have any type of malfunctions with mine. I have maybe about 1600 rounds through mine so far including HP's. I think I might be extremely lucky. Though, I will call Sig and order a new flat recoil spring for backup.

I carry MagTech +P HP's through mine. Shot about 120 through it (Various times, and not in one sitting. Because that would be bad.) and haven't a malfunction.

The only ammo that doesn't cycle through my P238 is TUL 380 FMJ Steel ammo. It doesn't cycle in my friends either.

I run mine pretty wet.

68Charger wrote:Though, I will call Sig and order a new flat recoil spring for backup.

The SIG store on their web site has P238 spring kits (3 each of recoil spring and firing pin spring, so 6 springs total) for $12. The picture clearly shows the flat wire spring as someone described. But the description says "Image shown will differ from actual item." Hmmm...

I have had zero problems with my 238 since new. So a properly made and assembled 238 should have no problems. I shoot one handed, so I doubt it is "limp wristing". I'm going to blame it on the spring, till you replace it. Be sure it is installed in the right direction.