Springfield EMP 40 Rusting

[hpcatx]

Well I am still dealing with the rust issue. Eezox stuff works but you have to apply it about once a month. Even then you have to make sure you really work it into the metal. So now I am looking into some coatings. What's the best for a DIY coating. I am fairly skilled at painting so possibly I could apply it. I plan on just doing the frame and any pieces that are not stainless steel.

Don't know how I missed this thread earlier. I'm in the same area and have to weekly strip and lube guns that are not at all times in a safe with a desiccant. If Eezox is a once a month application, I may need to investigate it as well. Right now I'm using FrogLube; it's working well, but I'm concerned that if I miss an application, I'll end up with rust issues. Please continue to keep us updated.

[Jumping Frog]

Eezox works for me as well. Zero rust. None. Very pleased.

[OrangeAnimal]

I have not tried a different holster. Ibreally like the crossbreed supertuck I have currently. The only difference I could see helping is getting one without the combat cut. I like the combat cut as it facilatates quick withdraw from the holster and I feel that is paramount. I also carry from time to time my Sig P238 it has no issues with the finish and I am considering getting the emp coated in a similar manner as the Sig nitron finish. To say that its durable would be an understatement but I would really like to see what DIY coatings are available and actually do a good job. I am not from a fantasy world and do realize that nothing is perfect but for the Springfield Armory coating to wear off in less than a few weeks was disheartening.

[Dadtodabone]

Once upon a time I was an aspiring musician with an affinity to brass instruments. Even though I was meticulous in caring for my instruments, they all suffered from corrosion internally and externally. After much adversity, punishment for not caring for very expensive items, etc., it was discovered that my saliva and palmar sweat were overly acidic.
All bodily secretions are acidic to some extent and in extreme cases acidic body chemistry leads to acidosis and eventual debilitation without treatment. That you do not have a problem with one pistol while having ongoing problems with your Springer, and it's coating, in your new environment is illustrative of classic high acidity. An example would be, a clean, stocked, and sealed freezer going without power for extended period of time. What do we find when we open that freezer? Mold, bacteria growth, and assorted yuck stuff. Where did it all come from? It was there all the time, what changed was the environment. Your move to NOLA and new weapon are both environmental factors, increased perspiration and different metallurgy, that result in increased rusting.
In industrial history you and I would have been known as "Rusters" and been eliminated from the labor pool for work dealing with fine machining and the handling of unfinished polished metals and products like guns or ball/roller bearings, etc. It's why you see some folks using white cotton gloves when handling metal antiquities, be they guns or candelabra.
I combatted my problem with dietary changes, acquiring silver alloy or plated instruments at great expense and wearing white cotton gloves when playing or handling my instruments. Louis Armstrong and other NOLA musicians wore/wear gloves or use cotton handkerchiefs when playing to protect their instruments, not as a fashion statement. I am an avid collector of firearms, with a preference for fine break-action double guns. I have never been able to hold any of the valuable examples I own in my bare hands.

Change your holster, find one that shields your weapon from your body, reduce your intake of highly acidic food or drinks, increase intake of products with higher alkalinity, buy stainless steel replacement parts for your rusting originals or take new examples of the gun parts that are rusting to a machine shop and see if the can replicate them in stainless, use a talc based body powder to absorb perspiration.
I hope this helps, good luck.

[Pawpaw]

You might try a Kholster.

Similar in function to the Crossbreed, it is even more comfortable and protects the weapon better from your perspiration. If necessary, you could treat the leather backer with mink oil to make it more moisture resistant.

I own both Kholster and Crossbreed holsters. I wear the Kholster almost every day. I can't remember the last time I wore one of my Crossbreeds.

[OrangeAnimal]

Well more on this subject as I am still dealing with it.

I have since taken the gun apart let every piece sit soaking in CLP overnight. Then cleaned each piece meticulously. That seems to have helped. In the meantime I try and oil it up frequently.

Now I am debating coating it due to areas where the factory Armory Coat stuff wore off. I am still trying to decide what to use, what color etc. There's a wild streak in me that wants to pick a flashy color scheme but then I also realize that I am more than likely going to kill off some of the value by even doing it in the first place. Right now it has this kinda worn patina look to it which isn't all bad except for the rusting issues that I would rather avoid.

[WinoVeritas]

Kholster and Frog Lube work for me.

[drjoker]

antiperspirant?

[OrangeAnimal]

Yeah I should apply it to my side and hands maybe that would help LOL. In New Orleans sweating is a way of life if you are outside at all. Maybe Dec. and Jan. I might not sweat when I am outside. Really I just shouldn't work so hard then I wouldn't sweat so much although I don't think my paycheck would be as nice.

Really thinking about duracoating the frame and it's parts that will stave off the rust since there wouldn't be any bare metal showing. That's really the biggest issue if the coating will just last then I wouldn't have the issue to start with. For now I keep oiling it once a week. I say oiling but really I practically give it a oil bath. Takes about 45 mins from start to finish to get a nice coat let it soak and then remove excess.