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Is this something that can be done DIY?

I have a truck (TEOTWAWKI) rifle and I am considering adding a suppressor. I like the idea of the flash hider / suppressor combination.

Is changing the comp. for a flash hider a DIY project or should I use a gunsmith?

If it's not pinned and welded on, I'd think you should be able to remove the existing one and put on a new one. I also like the suppressors that quick-onnect onto a compatible flash hider.

You only need to be aware of a few things:

1. The obvious one of making sure that your proposed flashhider matches the threads on your barrel.

2. Making sure that it is properly timed, if, like the A2 "birdcage", the vents have to be oriented a specific way relative to the vertical. As a general rule, "pronged" flashhiders require no timing.

3. Making sure that your desired flashhider will indeed mount your desired suppressor. The best way to guarantee this is to buy one manufactured by the suppressor manufacturer, specifically for use with that suppressor. For example, I always buy an AAC brand 51T flashhider or muzzle brake for any rifle I plan to use with my AAC suppressor.

Examples:
DOES NOT NEED TO BE TIMED


NEEDS TO BE TIMED


NEEDS TO BE TIMED


All three are 51T muzzle devices made by AAC to fit any of their 51T suppressors, but only one needs no timing.

Don't forget you will need a new crush washer anytime you mount a new flash hider.

I was planning to buy the flash hider and the suppressor at the same time and from the same manufacture. I did not know about timing.

I had to search for a 'crush washer'. I was worried that you were pulling my leg.

I am planning to get out the barrel, bright lights, and a magnifying glass to search for a pin. I am pretty sure it's not welded.
If it's unpinned, I'll order the parts and pay for my stamp. About a year from now, I'll be able to mount the flash hider and suppressor. Assuming that the folks in DC don't get in the way.

I remember a few years ago thinking that the HARD LOCK on suppressors was going to loosen up. And, eventually folks would consider it rude to shoot unSuppressed. Silly Me!

I told my wife "I only want one more gun". She pretended to believe me.

Some additional notes on the crush washer:
1. For .223, the barrel is 1/2x28 threads for a muzzle device and you will need a crush washer for that size. Yes, crush washers come in different sizes.
2. Pay attention to the crush washer orientation, there is a cup/bevel that must point away from the muzzle.
3. Here is a good video from Brownells that explains how to change a muzzle device, crush washer orientation, and muzzle device clocking: https://youtu.be/78HAjHmkTSI

Wow
Brownells video made it look easy.

I recently got my YHM Resonator out of jail. YHM recommends not using crush washers for their suppressor and includes some shims if you need them. Follow the manufacturer's directions.

troglodyte wrote: Wed Aug 11, 2021 4:02 pm I recently got my YHM Resonator out of jail. YHM recommends not using crush washers for their suppressor and includes some shims if you need them. Follow the manufacturer's directions.

That's what I've heard also. Don't use crush washers if mounting a suppressor, only shims.

Of course, I'm not an expert. I'm not a doctor nor a lawyer, either.

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tomneal wrote: Tue Aug 10, 2021 8:11 pm

I am planning to get out the barrel, bright lights, and a magnifying glass to search for a pin. I am pretty sure it's not welded.
If it's unpinned, I'll order the parts and pay for my stamp. About a year from now, I'll be able to mount the flash hider and suppressor. Assuming that the folks in DC don't get in the way.

Normally the ones that are pinned are the barrels less than 16". They pin the flash hider to make it meet the length for a rifle.

My barrel is 16"+
Hopefully it's not pinned

Here is another video from Brownells that explains why and how to use shims instead of a crush washer for a muzzle device that will be used with a suppressor.
https://youtu.be/AfzxCn0lc50

tomneal wrote: Wed Aug 11, 2021 10:03 pm My barrel is 16"+
Hopefully it's not pinned

If it is 16” or longer, it is almost certainly NOT pinned and welded, as there would be no reason for doing so. The reason for pinning and welding a flashhider to a barrel is to bring a 14.5” M4 barrel into compliance with the NFA by giving it a permanent 16” length. If a 14.5” barrel does NOT have the flashhider permanently pinned and welded to make it 16” long, it is an SBR and must be registered with ATF under the NFA.

When I read the word 'shims', I thought of the kind of shims used to align a door or window. I couldn't visualize how that would work.

Instead, the 'shims' in this case are a set of washers with different thicknesses. You do temporary installs of the flash hider with a 'shim' until you find the one with the correct thickness.

My next question
How much torque will it take to remove the old flash hider?
I have a non-marring vice but I don't have the Brownells tool to protect the rest of the AR.

There’s only one way to find out!