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anyone ever uses Muriatic acid to remove rust i want to know what im getting into before i try

acid + metal = NO NO!

Get a good cleaner like CLP and scrub and scrub and scrub, wipe and wipe and wipe...then when you think you are done..scrub and wipe some more

I scrubbed a M-16A2 rifle that was left in the armory in NC for over a month uncleaned and unprotected...we used the parts cleaner bin and CLP...I spent 2 hours cleaning that beast..but when I was done it was back in its original condition...and we ensured we left it coated with ample protectant.

Its not good to put an acid that will chemically alter the metal or strip layers off just to remove rust..because you are also removing the protective finish, that just means next time it will rust faster

You want to protect...not strip bud, the only time you acid etch metal is when you are going to apply a permanent chemical finish to the cleaned metal

What gun are you planning on cleaning?

not a gun a gas tank
this is what a motorcycle mechanic told me to use
im not familiar with that acid

lunchbox wrote:not a gun a gas tank
this is what a motorcycle mechanic told me to use
im not familiar with that acid

I'll assume you mean the inside of the tank: http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcy ... krust.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Muriatic asid is hydrochloric acid. Dont use it to clean metal.
Naval Jelly works good.

Liberty wrote:Muriatic asid is hydrochloric acid. Dont use it to clean metal.
Naval Jelly works good.

from what i understand of naval jelly it must be worked into the surface and i cant do that to the inside of a gas tank
also i need 4.5 gallons of what ever i use

lunchbox wrote:

Liberty wrote:Muriatic asid is hydrochloric acid. Dont use it to clean metal.
Naval Jelly works good.

from what i understand of naval jelly it must be worked into the surface and i cant do that to the inside of a gas tank also i need 4.5 gallons of what ever i use

The link I gave you has info on three different ways to do it, its just a short read.

Hydrochloric acid is used as a pickling agent to prepare steel for further processing, the pickling process removes rust and scale left from prior operations but leaves the bare metal subject to rapid rusting. The big problem may be how to dispose of the hazardous waste that results.

About a hundred years ago, in my misspent youth, I spent a week working in a mill where galvanized barn roofing was manufactured, and my job was to guide sheet metal into the dip tank where it got cleaned before going on to be rolled, dipped again, and galvanized. I don't pretend to have a thorough knowledge of the subject, just what little I picked up on that temp job, but I can tell you that working in an un-air-conditioned place like that while wearing rubber aprons and gauntlet gloves to the shoulder is not real comfortable. And it was hard to breathe in the mask.

Muriatic acid is technical grade hydrochloric acid. It will dissolve rust, but will also dissolve the base metal as well. When reacting with metals such as iron, steel and aluminum, muriatic acid gives off gaseous hydrogen chloride, which is corrosive and irritating to the eyes, nose, throat and sinus cavities. The reaction also generates hydrogen gas, which can be an explosion hazard. After neutralizing with a base, disposal of small quantities isn't too much of a problem. Muriatic acid can be used to lower pH in swimming pools, but you wouldn't want to add anything to your pool that has dissolved iron.

As Jim Longley suggested, if the metal is not throughly neutralized, cleaned and protected after the cleaning, the bare metal will rust at a faster rate. I would suggest another way to clean a gas tank.

Here...this is a writeup on how I cleaned the tank on my '82 SilverWing

http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic ... IC_ID=3664" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This worked perfectly and the inside of the tank was as clean as the day they made it!

You might also want to invest in one of those inline fuel filters to put on the fuel line between the tank and the carbs to catch any loose funk that may get stuck in the tank

MOTORMITE - FUEL FILTER (3/8"INLINE)


Even one of these would be ok (its more of a screen rather than a true filter)
Fuel Filter for Briggs & Stratton

jimlongley wrote:Hydrochloric acid is used as a pickling agent to prepare steel for further processing, the pickling process removes rust and scale left from prior operations but leaves the bare metal subject to rapid rusting. The big problem may be how to dispose of the hazardous waste that results.
About a hundred years ago, in my misspent youth, I spent a week working in a mill where galvanized barn roofing was manufactured, and my job was to guide sheet metal into the dip tank where it got cleaned before going on to be rolled, dipped again, and galvanized. I don't pretend to have a thorough knowledge of the subject, just what little I picked up on that temp job, but I can tell you that working in an un-air-conditioned place like that while wearing rubber aprons and gauntlet gloves to the shoulder is not real comfortable. And it was hard to breathe in the mask.

Hydrochloric acid (HCl) dissolves in water .

It could also be neutralized with a base such as Baking Soda.

Sorry, I just saw this thread.

If you haven't killed yourself yet, use this stuff. It's the best

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/ ... &zmap=7406" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

BTW, both Naval Jelly and Kreem contain acid.

jimlongley wrote:BTW, both Naval Jelly and Kreem contain acid.

Both contain phosphoric acid, not muriatic acid.

WildBill wrote:

jimlongley wrote:BTW, both Naval Jelly and Kreem contain acid.

Both contain phosphoric acid, not muriatic acid.

whats the difference between the 2