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Does anyone have any thoughts on utilizing the build in bumper hitch of a truck? This would be for a tent camper (we decided to save the cash and eventually go the TT route). My 08 Tundra did not come with the tow package, but the bumper is a step down bumper hitch that will allow me to drop a ball into it. Unit weight is 1,374lbs and tongue weight is 175lbs. So I am well within my tow capacity. The bumper is not just the thin metal bumper. It's got a solid steel bar running through it, over to the frame.

The camper would not be 100% level, but instead up about 3" from level (at the bumper).

Does anyone see any issues with this? This will be my first towable, so pardon the ignorance.

The bumper is perfectly safe to tow from in your case. It is best for the camper to ride level, but if you are close it will not hurt anything. The benefit of a towing hitch is it will:
1.allow you to tow level and heaver loads
2.move the connection point aft which will give you slightly more turning clearance.

Hitches are fairly cheap and look much better than a ball on the bumper. Check http://www.etrailer.com they have good prices on hitches that hide behind the bumper and are a direct bolt on.

Using a frame mounted towing hitch will enable you to tow heavier weight with a higher tongue weight - in case you ever run into that need.

TAM and FlynJay -

Thank you very much for the input! I'll feel much safer now driving down US 90 to Garner!

I am going to eventually get a Hitch (I love etrailer and have purchased a hitch and light kit from them in the past during a free shipping sale) but was wondering how I'd get it home tomorrow.

Again, thank you!!!

Just make sure your lights work before going out. Bring a crimping kit with you just in case you have to make some parking lot repairs. Also, be sure to cross the chains.

Safe towing.

Towing packages give much more than a simple hitch. The trucks I have had with towing packages included a larger radiator and transmission cooler.

I would strongly suggest you get an aftermarket transmission cooler installed. I've heard of 3000 dollar price tags on transmission rebuilds these days and it's just not worth it.

The main things that get transmissions are undetected leaks and heat. Pulling a trailer will generate a lot of heat.

Good luck.

I don't think the OP is going to have transmission problems with his 1400lbf trailer, espically behind a full size or light duty pickup. But for heavier loads through the hills it would be a wise investment. Your problem is going to be remembering that it's back there.

TDDude,

That's a good point! I have a V6, so I will keep an eye on it for the first go around. Luckily, the truck is under warranty, so if something does happen, I should be covered.

It may just be a good investment to do anyways. Between the hills in the Hill Country, and the typical South / Central Texas heat, it would alleviate any possibility of a burnout. And they are fairly cheap too...

-pbw

Pulling a trailer will generate a lot of heat

It sure will right now. This afternoon will be even worse.

There shouldn't be any problems. He could probably carry more weight than this trailer in the bed. The only thing I can think of might be dips or speed bumps if they are significant enough. The unlevel trailer could bottom out in the rear if it's close enough.

Well, I towed her today! The non-level tow looks goofy, but it's functional. Of course, it's temporary, but she handled fine around turns (I was taking them REALLY wide )

You can buy a drop down attachment to level that hitch point.

Rex B wrote:You can buy a drop down attachment to level that hitch point.

Oh wow...I had no idea!

Would that be #7 in this schematic?

yes. Most are made to use existing holes, if they are there and properly spaced.
If not, you can usually have the holes drilled. This is not a job for your Sears 12V cordless.

That allows you to use any standard 2" attachment - various drop-down ball mounts, plus things like cargo carriers and bike racks.

I had a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado LS extended cab short bed with the 5.3 liter V8 and 3.42 rear.

It also had no towing package. (I didn't even check when I bought it because I'd never heard of a truck without one before.)

We bought a larger popup (PUP) that weighed around 2,500 lbs. and I had a trailering package installed at the local Chevy dealer.

~ $100 for the hitch receiver and electrical wiring (make sure they put the 12v through the ignition so that you won't drain your battery dead when the truck is turned off).

~ $100 for an electric brake controller (I'd recommend this for ANY size trailer that has brakes). You can get a proportional controller (Prodigy or P3) by Tekonsha here:
Prodigy for $112.00
P3 for $134.00

You should be able to buy the specific wiring kit that matches your year, make, and model of truck for around $10 which will make installation a breeze. These are FAR superior to the timing-based controllers and don't cost much more.

I towed regularly with a 2" ball with no problems. I rarely used Tow/Haul mode or had to shift into 3rd. There was plenty of power and no strain on the engine - < 2,000 RPMs at level interstate speeds.

For good measure I added a transmission cooler for about $60 and a heavy-duty fan clutch for about $60.

This is where I should have stopped.

Instead, we bought a heavier trailer - closer to 5,000 lbs. and a larger profile which added more wind resistance. It didn't tow nearly as comfortable, so I added a cold air fuel injection kit by K&N for $225. Terrible mistake. I got a little more power, but it was negligible and certainly not worth the jet engine sounds I produced at wide-open throttle on hills or entrance ramps with the full load behind me.

I had upgraded the tire size one level from stock before I started towing without realizing that this has a negative impact on your rear end gear ratio for towing performance. Essentially, you turn a 4.10 into a 3.73, a 3.73 into a 3.42, and a 3.42 into an incapable towing machine. Right before I was about to change out the rear end with a 4.10 Positraction, I decided to quit trying to BUILD a tow dog out of a grocery getter and go buy a truck that was setup right from factory.

If you're going to stay with the PUP, I think you'll do fine to invest $200 to get the trailering package and brake controller. If you go on long trips, in a lot of traffic, or into hills, then eventually add a transmission cooler and a fan clutch. These are things that will increase the value of the truck a little as well if the buyer is looking to tow.

If you upgrade your trailer at all. . . consider a new(er) truck.

OK - YMMV. I used to get 20 mpg. Now I don't.

*To clarify on edit*
I upgraded to a 2005 2500 HD Silverado LS crew cab standard bed with the 6.0 liter gas engine and 4.10 rear end. The fuel economy is terrible, but I work from home, so it doesn't hurt too much. A properly equipped 1/2 ton would have been more than adequate but I needed the full crew cab and 6' bed, so I took advantage of a dealership not being able to move a gas guzzler. I got a great education about trucks through my pocketbook. To be fair, I'm one of the conservative ones who likes to stay around 80% or less of the vehicle's ratings. And yes, I went to a truck stop and weighed the whole setup. I'm also that guy.