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Is it just to save acouple of bucks, or are their REAL advantages to it? I normally hear bull like "They dont load them hot enough at the Factory"

How long does it take to load 100 Rounds of 9mm?
What would that cost in supplies?

Well the answer is........... it all depends, on what you are looking for.

If you shoot a lot it will save you money, one of the advantages is you can make ammo stronger or lighter than factory. another is it is enjoyable. there is a certain satisfaction in shooting ammo you made, especially in competition an hunting

With my reloading set up it takes about 15 minuets to make 100 rounds, (Dillon 550).

if that does not answer your questions let me know.

Kevin

sskimber wrote:Well the answer is........... it all depends, on what you are looking for.

If you shoot a lot it will save you money, one of the advantages is you can make ammo stronger or lighter than factory. another is it is enjoyable. there is a certain satisfaction in shooting ammo you made, especially in competition an hunting

With my reloading set up it takes about 15 minuets to make 100 rounds, (Dillon 550).

if that does not answer your questions let me know.

Kevin

you've been most helpfull
Whats the average starting cost? Can you reload multiple calibers? How do you safely store the powder, I worry most about the powder, couldnt alot of static cause it to ignite?
Where do you get the supplies?

start up cost varies, it all depends on how much you shoot. I started with the RCBS master rock chucker single stage kit. is is currently 279 at natchezss.com, that will get you almost everything you need to start loading, I have progressed some since i started, to a progressive press.

I get most of my components over the Net and in group buys, (shipping powder and primers requires a special fee).
components can also be purchased locally, at many locations.

it takes a separate set of die to load each caliber.

storing powder needs to be done in the original container and should be is a cool dry place, unless you are a smoker there is little chance of an issue, but I applaud your concern.


Kevin

marksiwel wrote:

you've been most helpfull
Whats the average starting cost? A couple of hundred bucks. Can you reload multiple calibers? YES How do you safely store the powder,In the original container I worry most about the powder, couldnt alot of static cause it to ignite? Not likely Where do you get the supplies? Gun shops/online[/quote]

sskimber wrote:start up cost varies, it all depends on how much you shoot. I started with the RCBS master rock chucker single stage kit. is is currently 279 at natchezss.com, that will get you almost everything you need to start loading, I have progressed some since i started, to a progressive press.

I get most of my components over the Net and in group buys, (shipping powder and primers requires a special fee).
components can also be purchased locally, at many locations.

it takes a separate set of die to load each caliber.

storing powder needs to be done in the original container and should be is a cool dry place, unless you are a smoker there is little chance of an issue, but I applaud your concern.


Kevin

I live in an Apartment, I dont really have space, but I would want to do it in an area free of eletronics (Like my PC or an oven )
You recommend any books on it?
can you make JHP (Jacketed Hollow Points?)

Any reloading manual will have a section devoted to how to reload, i first read the Lymann manual, and it is still my go to manual because I like the format.

Take a loot at the thread titled "Pics of your reloading area" several of these show pictures of apartment loading set up, just for ideas.
and you right you dont want to load on the stove.

Kevin

can you make JHP (Jacketed Hollow Points?)


If you are speaking about the bullets yes, but it takes a lot of expensive equipment. If you mean JHP ammo just use JHP bullets.

marksiwel wrote:You recommend any books on it?

I would start with "The ABC's of Reloading" by Bill Chevalier ($17 at Amazon). Then, get a reloading manual or two (Lyman, Speer, Lee, Hornady, etc.) and read them, too. Just about all of your questions will be answered. I started with Chevalier's book, and it has more than you'll like to know, probably. I know I still have to go back and re-read parts of it.

the advantages for me is RELAXATION, i get so focused on the reloading evolution that i forget all about the days trials and tribulations.
and i burn up a lot of rounds at the range, so its cost effective.
no HOT loads , just good plinking loads. right now it is running for me between 3-5 cents per built up catridge

UpTheIrons wrote:

marksiwel wrote:You recommend any books on it?

I would start with "The ABC's of Reloading" by Bill Chevalier ($17 at Amazon). Then, get a reloading manual or two (Lyman, Speer, Lee, Hornady, etc.) and read them, too. Just about all of your questions will be answered. I started with Chevalier's book, and it has more than you'll like to know, probably. I know I still have to go back and re-read parts of it.

Abcs has been added to my amazon wishlist, thanks guys!

One of the main reasons I reload is so that I can tailor ammunition to my firearms and situations. Besides, the process can be fun. I enjoy the mental aspect of planning a load, trying to find a way to do each step more consistently, and trying to solve the little problems that crop up. Ok, I like handling all those shiny cases and bullets, too!
At one time I reloaded for Dad's .455 Webley MkI, converted to .45 ACP/ .45 Auto Rim. The revolver was made in the 1880's, and .45 ACP can be pretty hot. Out of respect for it's age, we loaded it with lead bullets and low pressure loads.
I can also load for accuracy in my particular firearms, load very soft-kicking loads for training and practice, and load combinations the factories don't make. For example, I can load hollow base wadcutters in .357 Magnum cases.
My Type 38 Arisaka carbine is chambered for 6.5-.257 Roberts. Ever see a box of factory ammunition for that? The closest is 6.5X57 Mauser, not exactly common.

In college, my whole reloading setup for .38/.357 fit in an old briefcase. Lee Loader, 1 lb can of powder, primers, a few accessories that made various steps easier. I reloaded cases on a kitchen table, at the range, and in the back of my old Vega wagon. I still keep a some portable reloading capability (Lee Loaders, Lyman tong tool, a couple of portable presses, etc.)

Start small, see if you like it.

There are generally four reasons to reload your own ammunition . . .

1. Cost - typical cost of paper-punching ammo will be from half to two thirds of the cost of factory ammo.

2. Quality - carefully handloaded ammunition will be more consistent and accurate than factory loaded ammunition, because it can be tailored to your firearm. (This takes some care and effort, it's not automatic.)

3. Power - in SOME cases, you can increase the power of your ammo over that of factory loaded ammo. This is highly dependent on both the cartridge and firearm, and one ought to put some serious thought into what he's trying to accomplish (and how!) rather than simply putting more powder - or a different powder - into the ammo he's loading.

4. Non-standard ammo. In some cases, factory ammo simply isn't available, so handloading is the only method to get ammo for a firearm chambered in a wildcat or obsolete cartridge.

In terms of safety, there's NO issue as long as common sense is followed. Store primers and powder in reasonable quantities, in their original containers, away from your stove, fireplace, etc. Don't smoke while reloading ammo. Avoid distractions (TV, phone) while loading ammo. Wear safety glasses. Etc.

sskimber wrote: . . . With my reloading set up it takes about 15 minuets to make 100 rounds, (Dillon 550).

As another data point . . . I load most pistol ammo on a Dillon Square Deal "B" reloading press. Working at a very comfortable pace, slow enough to think about what I'm doing and watch what's happening, it takes me about six minutes to cycle 50 rounds through the press. That's a rate of about 500 per hour, but of course since I periodically have to refill the primer supply, refill the powder measure, remove loaded rounds from the bin, and check the powder weight being dropped, the sustained rate is lower.

Single stage presses are much slower.

Oops . . . I wrote

HankB wrote:1. Cost - typical cost of paper-punching ammo will be from half to two thirds of the cost of factory ammo.

It should have read "1. Cost - typical savings of paper-punching ammo will be from half to two thirds of the cost of factory ammo."