TexasCHLforum.com

Several years ago, I bought a used Ruger M77 in .223 Rem from a shop in the town I then lived in. It came with nothing extra from Ruger (no box, rings, etc) and on the (bad) advice of a fellow hunter, I put a Simmons 6-20x50 scope on it using high Burris rings front and rear. If you've read this far, you're probably shaking your head already.
I zeroed the rifle, and hunted with it successfully off and on for a few years, but never was satisfied with the way it shot. I never could get a tight group and I was very frequently checking and adjusting zero to keep the rifle just "reasonablly' on target.
About a month ago, I decided to do something about it and started researching the issues I was having on this and other forums, as well as doing numerous Internet searches. It didn't take long before the light began to flicker.
I took the 6-20 scope off, and put on a Nikon ProStaff 4-12X40mm with the correct height rings (Ruger med up front and high in the reaf) and let a gunshop check my install making sure it was correct, level, and bore sighted. Then I headed for the range.
After about 15 rounds(factory ammo), 5 or so at 50 yards, and the rest at 100, I had a zero 1.5" high at 100 yds and a four shot group I could easily cover with a quarter. Three of these last 4 shots were tangent to one another, almost in the same hole.
Now the Ruger has graduated to a real shooter status.

same scope and rings I have on my M77 MkII .243, and the lowest rings possible. Sounds like you have the rifle tuned perfectly as far as screw torque. I bought mine the same way... like new, but no box, papers....just rifle. I spent several trips at the range in disgust with 2-3 inch groups (100 yds), then discovered on another web site that the M77 requires a "white knuckle" torque (actually I think rated at 90 inch pounds) on the front diagonal action screw and "hand tight" on the rear screw (about 30 inch pounds). Not having a torque driver that would hit the call for the front, I got the stoutest screwdriver I could find that fit the slot, and white knuckled the diagonal screw (in Boyds Laminate free float stock). Surprise, surprise... sub moa groups with every kind of American factory ammo doown the tube, and like yours, some would cover with a quarter. I recently had a buddy leave a Hogue stock with me to try out, and the first range trip was a bummer like the early experiences.... haven't got to the "white knuckle" adjustment yet. I do love the Ruger M77 line.

Congrats on the fine tuning job.


surv

A number of years ago, I bought a M77 MkII "All Weather" rifle in .308. It was a package gun, and it came with a 3-9x38(?)mm scope on it. This is an all stainless action and barrel in a weird Zytel stock, with a 22" light sporter contour barrel and a recoil pad as hard as iron. The whole thing weighs about 6.5 lbs, which makes for a stout recoiling rifle.

Anyway, it has shot a very few groups under 1", but most are in the 1.5" range - which is plenty close to MOA (Minute Of Animal) accuracy, even with a pretty crappy scope on it.

When my son turned 15, I gave it to him. It was his first ever centerfire rifle.

Guys,

Appreciate the comments. I hope maybe this helps someone avoid making the same mistakes I made. It's sort of a "live and learn" thing, but in looking back, I should have researched more at the time and verified everything beforehand just like it had been a project at work.