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We have a 19 year old sprinkler system and the Toro Vision I timer needs to be replaced. I'm going to change it but I have no idea if there are different configurations of timers.

The wiring on the timer consists of 6 single red wires (1 for each zone valve); two white ground wires; 3 gray wires with different colored striping on each going to a buss bar marked 15V -- 0V (yes, zero) -- 24V. The red and white wires are what I would expect and the three gray wires obviously are the DC B+ that must feed the red wires to the valves.

I'm stumped by the 3 different gray DC wires. Why different voltages?

Does anyone know about sprinkler timers and possible variations and what I should buy?

Thanks,
Chas.

uuhhhhh.... can you open carry with that set up?

I do most things around my house DYI

I can Change out a sprinkler head, past that I pay someone. I just don't understand it.

I know this is of no help, but each project = countless trips to Lowes.


If it's not easy to find on google, I get out my visa.

Charles, I have the exact same timer. If it makes you feel any better, you're not alone out in the weeds. Even programming the thing borders on the counter-intuitive.

I think the 15V is to run the timer and the 24V is for the valves. 0V is the return (ground) for the B+. I believe the new timers just drop the voltage in the timer instead of using a different tap off the wall transformer. Here is a link to a newer model Vision II manual http://ais-ne.com/sprinklermanuals/vision2.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, but it still hase 12 and 24 V taps. New ones just have 24V.

About any timer should be fine AFAIK. Just get one with enough zones and a new transformer.

It may also need to control a pump (well system?) or open a master valve when any of the yard valves are open. FYI.

sjfcontrol wrote:It may also need to control a pump (well system?) or open a master valve when any of the yard valves are open. FYI.

Thanks for the tip. We're on city water but I'll check to see if there is an electric master valve. I don't think so because the individual zone valves are in a box in the back yard next to the garage and there is a manual sprinkler valve also.

Chas.

Ed4032 wrote:uuhhhhh.... can you open carry with that set up?

No, no open carry in Texas. The sprinkler system is concealed, as per the law. The sprinkler heads only show when necessary, as any CHL knows.

AHHHH Something I know something about. I used to install these things all the time.

The only wiring you need to concern yourself with is the wiring to the valves (red), the common (white), and the power supply.

One thing you might check before scrapping it is the transformer. Check to make sure it is putting out 24 vac. The transformer is the most likely component to fail.

Does yours have an external or internal transformer? An external is the typical box with the plug spades (like the cell phone charger). An internal will just have a regular cord running into the box. It doesn't really matter if you are replacing the unit unless power comes through a j-box or something. Most are just plugged into an outlet somewhere.

The three grey wire going to the buss bar are for internal electronics, the clock, lights, etc. and you don't have to mess with them. Your valves are 24 vac and that is the output of the transformer.

Change out is pretty simple.

1. Unplug the controller (if it is hardwired then turn off the breaker and disconnect supply wires inside controller)
2. Disconnect all your red valve wires (label them with a piece of tape and numbered by valve) and your common white wires.
3. If you have a wire to the P/MV (Pump/Master Valve. May just be MV) then disconnect it and label. Ignore all the other wires.
4. Put up new controller.
5. Connect white wires to common/ground terminal. Red wires to individual valves. Master valve (if you have one) to MV terminal (designation varies by controller manufacturer but it's easy enough to figure out).
6. Plug in new controller and program per instructions.

Let me know if this doesn't make sense. It's one of those things I can do in my sleep but it is not always easy to explain it to someone.

Personally this was one of my favorite Toro controllers. Once set it was easy for the homeowner to change the watering times (the most common adjustment) with a twist of the dial. The "video game" controller just didn't work for my elderly clients.

Any more all controllers are all digital . I'd stay with Toro, Hunter, or Rainbird. And please don't pick one up at the box store. These are usually a cheaper model and my clients have not had the best of luck with them and I had to change them out. Go to a sprinkler supply store or distributor and pick up a good model. It will cost more but it will last. 19 years on the previous controller is pretty good but not surprising.

Oh and the new timers have fuses which blow at the slightest cross connection. In case you mess up, which I do all the time.
They are hard to find unless you go to an automotive parts store.

troglodyte wrote:AHHHH Something I know something about. I used to install these things all the time.

The only wiring you need to concern yourself with is the wiring to the valves (red), the common (white), and the power supply.

One thing you might check before scrapping it is the transformer. Check to make sure it is putting out 24 vac. The transformer is the most likely component to fail.

Does yours have an external or internal transformer? An external is the typical box with the plug spades (like the cell phone charger). An internal will just have a regular cord running into the box. It doesn't really matter if you are replacing the unit unless power comes through a j-box or something. Most are just plugged into an outlet somewhere.

The three grey wire going to the buss bar are for internal electronics, the clock, lights, etc. and you don't have to mess with them. Your valves are 24 vac and that is the output of the transformer.

Change out is pretty simple.

1. Unplug the controller (if it is hardwired then turn off the breaker and disconnect supply wires inside controller)
2. Disconnect all your red valve wires (label them with a piece of tape and numbered by valve) and your common white wires.
3. If you have a wire to the P/MV (Pump/Master Valve. May just be MV) then disconnect it and label. Ignore all the other wires.
4. Put up new controller.
5. Connect white wires to common/ground terminal. Red wires to individual valves. Master valve (if you have one) to MV terminal (designation varies by controller manufacturer but it's easy enough to figure out).
6. Plug in new controller and program per instructions.

Let me know if this doesn't make sense. It's one of those things I can do in my sleep but it is not always easy to explain it to someone.

Personally this was one of my favorite Toro controllers. Once set it was easy for the homeowner to change the watering times (the most common adjustment) with a twist of the dial. The "video game" controller just didn't work for my elderly clients.

Any more all controllers are all digital . I'd stay with Toro, Hunter, or Rainbird. And please don't pick one up at the box store. These are usually a cheaper model and my clients have not had the best of luck with them and I had to change them out. Go to a sprinkler supply store or distributor and pick up a good model. It will cost more but it will last. 19 years on the previous controller is pretty good but not surprising.

That's a great description of the process; thanks!

The unit is still working, but the contacts on the rotary zone controls as well as the start/stop slide switches are a problem. It's almost impossible to set them properly, so my guess is they need cleaning but it doesn't look like I can get to them. If I could, I think a good cleaning with an electrical contact cleaner would probably fix it.

Chas.

The new ones are much easier to set and use than the old ones, and it's worth the small amount of trouble involved in replacing them. I did one for my neighbor several months ago and it took me about an hour, although I'd never done one before. (It even worked afterwards!)

A couple of tips:

1) Download an installation manual for the old unit from the web before you start. It will help you understand what each terminal is for.

2) Take a photo of the wiring setup on the existing unit and label each wire with the terminal it went to before you take anything apart. That way if you later get confused you can go back and figure things out.

3) Using the installation manual for the new unit, make yourself a diagram of which old wire goes to which new terminal before you actually start attaching things. If there are any points for confusion, it's best to resolve them before connecting wires and powering things up.

Good luck!

Charles L. Cotton wrote:We have a 19 year old sprinkler system and the Toro Vision I timer needs to be replaced. I'm going to change it but I have no idea if there are different configurations of timers.

The wiring on the timer consists of 6 single red wires (1 for each zone valve); two white ground wires; 3 gray wires with different colored striping on each going to a buss bar marked 15V -- 0V (yes, zero) -- 24V. The red and white wires are what I would expect and the three gray wires obviously are the DC B+ that must feed the red wires to the valves.

I'm stumped by the 3 different gray DC wires. Why different voltages?

Does anyone know about sprinkler timers and possible variations and what I should buy?

Thanks,
Chas.

My advise is to disconnect, dismount it and take it to a place that specializes in irrigation systems. They can tell you which of the current timers is best suited as a replacement.

i just put this in last weekend. http://www.amazon.com/Toro-53787--8-Zon ... 785&sr=8-3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. works great plug the usb device in to my computer and set up the timer. thak the usb dongle out to the timer and upload it. takes about 10 min to do.
I also chenged out all my sprinkler heads to http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Circle-Rotar ... 910&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; they work great and look cool too.
they flow about .6 gph in large droplets so blowing mist and watering everthing but the lawn on a windy day is not as big of an issue. covarge is better also.

OldCurlyWolf wrote:

Charles L. Cotton wrote:We have a 19 year old sprinkler system and the Toro Vision I timer needs to be replaced. I'm going to change it but I have no idea if there are different configurations of timers.

The wiring on the timer consists of 6 single red wires (1 for each zone valve); two white ground wires; 3 gray wires with different colored striping on each going to a buss bar marked 15V -- 0V (yes, zero) -- 24V. The red and white wires are what I would expect and the three gray wires obviously are the DC B+ that must feed the red wires to the valves.

I'm stumped by the 3 different gray DC wires. Why different voltages?

Does anyone know about sprinkler timers and possible variations and what I should buy?

Thanks,
Chas.

My advise is to disconnect, dismount it and take it to a place that specializes in irrigation systems. They can tell you which of the current timers is best suited as a replacement.

Just bringing in the make and model number should give any professional all the info he needs to make a recommendation. He can look up the specs easily enough. Disconnecting the wiring without a solid plan on how it'll be arranged on a new unit is not something I'd suggest doing.