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Ok, I have discovered that it is impossible to get lead bullets when I want them unless I settle for local over priced stuff and even then they never have the same thing twice. Also learned that http://www.thebulletworks.net" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; SUCKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

Ok, I feel better. Now after reading Andy's post about reclaming range lead, I believe I can follow in those lines quite easily. So, I want to get started casting for .45 acp.

Which mold should I look for? 2 cavity, 6 cavity ?

Which pot works best?

I am sure it has been discussed before, however I searched for a # of cavity topic and found none. So help a brother out. Please

My biggest issue may be space, but I guess I will be able to set up a temporary work station for the process.

I used to mold bullets many years ago, but when I started shooting action pistol matches it because obvious I couldn't begin to produce enough. I used Lyman 4 cavity molds for everything. If Lyman had made 6 cavity molds, I would have used them. Get at least two, preferably three, of each bullet you want to cast, because it makes it easier to maintain the proper temperature. Once your molds are up to proper temperature, you can open then refill one, place it on the rim of the melting pot, then go to the next mold. Two molds work very well, if you don't get too fast. With three, you can turn them as quickly as you can and still maintain the proper temperature.

BTW, if you start doing this, make sure you never have any water/cokes/beer/etc. anywhere near the pot!! One drop of water in the pot turns it into a lead-splattering bomb. I was once drinking a Coke and one drop of condensation fell into the pot and things really got exciting.

I've had several pots, but I like the bottom pour pots best.

Chas.

sorry but based on the subject line I just have to answer NOT THE BLACK KIND



yeah, I dealt with a bit of the "killer black mold" issue years ago when it was all the rage for insurance adjusters, property managers, etc.

I am wondering what issues you had with the Bulletworks bullets. I have run more than 10k of them down the tubes of my 45's. The only issue I have is leading in the first inch of the barrel. I am not a cast bullet expert but one of the guys I work it is. I took a few in for him to look at. He said they are a little hard on the lead for a 45 acp (pressure) and the lube is to hard. He said it is common for commercial casters to use that hardness of lead and lube as the bullets survive transportation without having a lot of dings in them and the hard lube keeps the bullets clean (they are very clean cast bullets). I run a couple of jacketed bullets through the barrel after a shooting session and that pushes most of the lead out so that the barrel is easy to clean. I did start buying my cast bullets from Friendswood bullets (local to me). The alloy appears to be the same but the lube is softer. I don't get any leading of the barrel with those bullets. They are not quite as clean but not enough lube gets on the bullets to cause any issues. I don't have time to cast and don't want to spend the $ for jacketed bullets. I shoot these bullets for IDPA out of S&W M&Ps. They are plenty accurate enough for that.

Charles L. Cotton wrote:I used to mold bullets many years ago, but when I started shooting action pistol matches it because obvious I couldn't begin to produce enough. I used Lyman 4 cavity molds for everything. If Lyman had made 6 cavity molds, I would have used them. Get at least two, preferably three, of each bullet you want to cast, because it makes it easier to maintain the proper temperature. Once your molds are up to proper temperature, you can open then refill one, place it on the rim of the melting pot, then go to the next mold. Two molds work very well, if you don't get too fast. With three, you can turn them as quickly as you can and still maintain the proper temperature.

BTW, if you start doing this, make sure you never have any water/cokes/beer/etc. anywhere near the pot!! One drop of water in the pot turns it into a lead-splattering bomb. I was once drinking a Coke and one drop of condensation fell into the pot and things really got exciting.

I've had several pots, but I like the bottom pour pots best.

Chas.

Thanks Charles, I gather you prefered the Lyman molds over other brands?

It has been many years since I cast any bullets, however I do recall the "splatter bomb" LOL I"ll do my best to avoid that.

In reality I might not be able to keep up either, I would just like another source that is more reliable. When I want something, I want it now, and I don't mind doing the work to get it. If I was to think it through, it will not save me any money at all. I would like to think my time is worth more than some bullets. LOL Don't answer that anybody.

Have you ever tried the Lee Molds?

LTUME1978 wrote:I am wondering what issues you had with the Bulletworks bullets. I have run more than 10k of them down the tubes of my 45's. The only issue I have is leading in the first inch of the barrel. I am not a cast bullet expert but one of the guys I work it is. I took a few in for him to look at. He said they are a little hard on the lead for a 45 acp (pressure) and the lube is to hard. He said it is common for commercial casters to use that hardness of lead and lube as the bullets survive transportation without having a lot of dings in them and the hard lube keeps the bullets clean (they are very clean cast bullets). I run a couple of jacketed bullets through the barrel after a shooting session and that pushes most of the lead out so that the barrel is easy to clean. I did start buying my cast bullets from Friendswood bullets (local to me). The alloy appears to be the same but the lube is softer. I don't get any leading of the barrel with those bullets. They are not quite as clean but not enough lube gets on the bullets to cause any issues. I don't have time to cast and don't want to spend the $ for jacketed bullets. I shoot these bullets for IDPA out of S&W M&Ps. They are plenty accurate enough for that.

I wish I knew what their bullets were like. I ordered from them over a month ago and 6 phone calls, 10 emails later, I still have no bullets. They charged methe day I ordered which is bad business too. I canceled the charge today I'm done with them. Total lack of communication.

If you cast wheelweights, pull of the clips..had a primer (live) go off in the molten lead...got REAL exciting QUICK!.

Hi Seabear,

I got bit by the casting bug about a year ago and have been having very good luck casting and shooting 200gn 45 ACP LSWC. I had a couple of friends introduce me to the techniques and equipment. I use a Lee 10# bottom pour pot and a Lee 6 cavity mould for tumble lube bullets and have no complaints. The 6 cavity aluminum mould heats up fast and maintains the correct temperature uniformly for all the cavities. And did I mention it makes a LOT of boolits in a hurry?

I use a 20 second cycle time which is 5 seconds to pour the mold, a ten second pause to let the lead congeal and then dump the mould into a towell taped over a trash can, close the mould and begin again. The towel is to cusheon the not quite hard bullets so they remain in the shape they were moulded. I could dump them in cold water but that makes them too hard and results in leading in the bore unless you anneal them afterward but that's another story.

The tumble lube is the greatest invention since the light bulb. Put the bullets in a plastic coffee container (clean out all the remaining coffee powder residue first) add a little of your mixture of Lee Liquid Alox, some bees wax and a little mineral spirits (use the formula listed under "boolit lube" on the "Cast Boolets" web site) then roll the container in your hands for a minute or three and you're done. I usually put about 300 bullets at a time in the container as that is about as many as I get from one 10# melt from the furnace and it leaves plety of room in the container for them to tumble around.

If you really want to get the inside scoop on all things "Cast Boolits" go to:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

Also an excelent one-stop reference is:

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

that site really covers the entire subject in as much detail as you'll ever need.

Hope this helps.

Gerry

Ok, I may need to clarify, AND remind some why I am loading .45acp ...

I'm not worried about feeding or cycling a 1911, sure I have a couple, but I have decided to make my competition life more difficult. I have been competing lately with a S&W 625 JM which is a 6 shot revolver using .45acp with full moon clips. Yes clips, not magazines. LOL

I have been slowing my loads down to reduce recoil and exspense. I loved the 185 gr lswc and then I had to buy some 200gr lct,, and the last match all I had available since my order from http://www.thebulletworks.net" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is in limbo FOREVER, was some 230gr LRN...

SO, I want the same bullet every week. Is that too much to ask? My primary reason is for the 625, however I may also pump up the load to run my 1911. I will say though that speed loading the 625 with LRN is much quicker than the LSWC. So I am leaning to some LRN molds.

Charles L. Cotton wrote:I used to mold bullets many years ago, . . . I used Lyman 4 cavity molds for everything.

If you find an old Lyman mold from years ago for sale, it would likely do a good job.

However, I would strongly recommend you do not purchase Lyman molds now. Not only have I had quality problems in recent years, but if you read the Castboolits forum, it is pretty commonly accepted that Lyman's quality has slipped a lot in recent years. They are known for using the cherry that cuts the mold for too long and selling undersized molds that produce undersized bullets.

My last Lyman mold was a .45 ACP 4-banger that dropped bullets that were .449-.450", instead of the typical .452". Undersized bullets allow gas cutting around the edges of the bullet and produce horrible leading. Here is what that Lyman mold produced in my gun:



Even after I sent it back to the factory for rework, I still was not happy with the results.

I also have casted with Lee, RCBS, and Saeco molds, and they all were fine. The Lee 6 banger molds can pump out an incredible number of bullets per hour. NEI's molds have a great reputation but I haven't used them. My personal favorite are Mihec molds, which are custom molds purchased via group buys on the Castboolits forum -- they are a work of art.

AndyC wrote:The major thing you need to decide before buying a mold is.... how are you going to size and lube them? Trust me, think about this first.

The regular commercial style of cast bullets typically have a single ring of lube around them:
. . . .
Then you get tumble-lube bullets as done by Lee. Instead of a single fat lube-groove in the bullet, there are many little grooves which retain the Lee liquid Alox:

Lee also make an inexpensive sizing kit which fits into a reloading press to size the bullets to the right diameter (about $17 or so). The sized bullets are then typically poured into a baggie some Alox liquid and shaken up to coat the bullets thoroughly - leave them overnight to dry and they're ready to be loaded.

Andy, as info, you can use the Lee sizer with tumble lube for any conventional bullet design as well. It does not have to be a tumble lube mold design to tumble lube your bullets.

Personally, I'll never buy a tumble lube style mold again. I am sticking with conventional design molds because it gives me the flexibility to size and lube using either method.