TexasCHLforum.com

I’m pondering the hand loading ideal. one of the things I don’t see myself doing is that darn _______ powder precisely and repeated onto that little arm scale that comes with the kits. Naturally the nice man at Gander Mountain pointed to the 399.00 digital scales.
My questions
Has any one ever used one, are they fast?
Do they really measure powder to go directly into the round, or do they just dole out pinches to use in those little measure cup like things.
Has any one ever asked Gander Mountain a question that had an answer under $100.00?

Unless, you're assembling ultra-precise rifle rounds, you only use the scale for setting your powder measure.

Get a good measure, develop a constant rhythm, and you can throw consistent measures. Remember that there will some variation in amounts so don't push maximum charges.

Oh, and get yourself several reloading manuals or print out data from mutilple sources that you can find online. You will quickly see that one source may recommend a charge that another shows over maximum.

I usually average ten individually weighed throws when setting my measure and again periodically during reloading.

Even when working up ultra accurate (hopefully) rifle rounds, you still set your powder measure a fraction low and bring the charge up by trickling the rest into the scale pan from a powder trickler.

It isn't complicated, so don't get discouraged.

Agree w/ Mike.
You must be willing to do repetative tasks if you are going to reload.

For safety you also should:
measure a charge ever so often.
visually check every powder charge before seating a bullet. It is easy to do in the loading blocks.
Look into every case & see that the powder level is the same in each one.

If repetative tasks bore you & you loose your precision, reloading can cost you more than it will save. One swelled barrel will do it.
Injury to hand or eye can be forever.

Reloading is not for everyone.
Above is the reason my son does not do it.
Take care.
LT

mcub wrote: My questions
Has any one ever used one, are they fast?
Do they really measure powder to go directly into the round, or do they just dole out pinches to use in those little measure cup like things.
Has any one ever asked Gander Mountain a question that had an answer under $100.00?

I agree w/ Mike 1951 & LT.
1. Yes, I've used one. They are no faster than a balance scale. You have to use a powder trickler to get your powder into either one of them.

2. Yes, they can measure powder going directly into the round, or they can be used to set your powder measure. By "the little cup like things", I'm guessing that you mean the Lee Powder Measure Kit ...If you use them, you're not going to be as precise as if you were using a powder measure with a hopper on top and a reciprocating cylinder and arm. When most of us use the term "powder measure", we're referring to the latter and not to the former (the Lee Kit).

3. Asking questions in a store is ok if you've got a lot of money to spend, but asking them on this Forum is free and our advice is better.

Double agree w/ #3 above. Because at least one of us has already made most of the financial mistakes that can possible be made.

longtooth wrote:Double agree w/ #3 above. Because at least one of us has already made most of the financial mistakes that can possible be made.

That would be why I'm asking here!!!

For a little more info.
I wanted to reload the 44 mag for my revolver, both light loads for target (44 sp level, but in the long case) and maybe some hunting loads. I may acquire a rifle in the future (30-06) but that would be latter. I also have a glock, but the bulk FMJ are not to costly, the gun has a rep of not liking lead ammo, and I don't see my self loading 500 rounds at a time any way.

I was thinking more as an expansion to the hobby, rather than cost reduction.

agreed. I don't think I'm really going to be saving much.
stinkin' brass costs as much as loaded rounds....
least you can reuse brass.....

anyway, gitcha one of these powder throws. it'll throw the powder directly into yer cases.

I'm not really sure what your wanting to gain from reloading.

I gathered from your post that you want this to be quick. As a newbie to reloading, I can tell you that measuring takes time. I consider this to be an important part of reloading--one that shouldn't be rushed.

However, once you get your powder dispenser (charge thrower) set, you only have to weigh the powder at intermittant levels. This helps, as you tend to move quickly once your charge is set.

If you aren't willing to take the time to properly measure, I wouldn't take it up.
ETA: I'm new at this.

You may be new but you are careful & that is the important part.

longtooth wrote:You may be new but you are careful & that is the important part.

Thank you for the compliment.

I also agree that if you are not willing or able to pay attention to detail all the time, you might want to find another hobby.

Dan

Venus Pax wrote:I'm not really sure what your wanting to gain from reloading.

Since your tagged as a senior member, I'll ask this.
What do you get out of it? I ask, because I don’t know a thing and my initial research has only uncovered, cost, complication, confusion and mostly discouragement. So I presume that I'm missing something in this equation. As it adds up now, one could save pennies over the cost of cheap pistol ammo, and either break even or spend more on rifle loads, depending on what your component selection happens to be.

So, with no intention of soundng Rude or being a Jerk, what is there to gain??

I don't think you're sounding rude by asking that question. I JUST started reloading last month. I'm still asking lots of questions myself.
I asked the same question you just asked before ordering my set-up.

There is a monetary savings. Right now, my figures say that I'm reloading for 60% to 70% of the cost of Blazer Brass, the cheapest practice bricks I can find. (And that's when I can find the Blazer Brass, as stores tend to be out of it and only have the more expensive ammo available for immediate purchase.)

I won't lie to you, however. There is a lot to learn and one must pay attention while working with primers & powder. I don't do this while watching t.v. or talking to friends on the phone, etc.

And I highly recommend this book if you're thinking about it. http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading/dp ... 778&sr=8-1
If you decide reloading isn't for you, you're not out much by purchasing this book, and you can always resell it or give it away.

Reloading probably won't be a major cost-saver unless you shoot a LOT. It takes some few hundreds of rounds to amortize the cost of the equipment. However, once that point is reached, it gets a LOT cheaper.

Conversely, the more you get into reloading, the more the equipment costs go up. For example, I started with a Lee single-stage press, upgraded to a turret press, and am now seriously tempted to get Hornady's progressive press kit. Yeah, single-stages are a LOT cheaper, but progressives are just so much faster...


There are other reasons to hand-load than cost, though. I've got a couple rifles sitting around which are most definitely NOT "common chamberings." (7.5 Swiss, .250-3000 Savage, etc). While ammo is out there, you have to look for it. With dies and components at hand, ammo is available whenever you want.
And just TRY finding loaded .43 Spanish ammunition....


Whatever your reasons for wanting to get into reloading, it's quite a fun hobby on its own merits (although sometimes frustrating and embarrassing... never try seating a bullet with a case-flaring die... ). Just start small and slow, and be careful. I can and do still make mistakes; I'm just glad they're the embarrassing kind and not the "thirty-stitches and reconstructive surgery" kind. Pay close attention to your loading data, and don't try to wild-cat your loads, and you'll be fine.


BTW, what kind of .44 Magnum do you shoot? Just curiosity here...

Sorry Thane, forgot to come back and answer you.

It a Ruger Redhawk 9" (forgot actual fraction) with a scope.
It's my understanding it can take the full range of ammo, up to and inculding the 300 gr bullets, though they are expensive. I've only seem them in the Corbon(spelled right?) brand.