I use a small steel locking case similar to the ones sold with a cable for securing to the frame of your car seat. No one is going to create a gap between the halves with anything short of a screwdriver.Jeff B. wrote:That may well be. There is a definition on the TSA site pertaining to the security of the container, it seems open to a bit of local interpretation.jimlongley wrote:
You were lied to, in several ways.
From TTAG:The firearm must be in a hard-sided container that is locked. A locked container is defined as one that completely secures the firearm from being accessed. Locked cases that can be pulled open with little effort cannot be brought aboard the aircraft.
It would seem that the standard for being "pulled open" may vary a bit from place to place and managers influence.Second, the case. Don’t buy cheap stuff. $15-20 plastic cases from Bass Pro ain’t gonna get the job done. The unwritten standard is that when the case is locked (not latched, but locked; think “someone trying to get in”) that you can’t fit your finger through the gap. (See this picture for a “bad” example.) I firmly believe Pelican (or something very, very similar) is the way to go. They are solid, and darn near bulletproof.
At the time, I wanted to;
- Successfully check my bags (to include said pistol)
- Get back to DFW before the big storms got in
We got both done and the extra locks cost $12.00 (IIRC). Alot cheaper than a hotel if we were delayed and had to stay over.
Jeff B.
I've flown with that rig for over 20 years with no problems. It's a little heavier than the plastic cases, but the security and certainty of being in compliance is worth the extra weight