Brass Questions

[CWOOD]

In considering the option of reloading I have come across some questions about brass.

It appears that buying once-fired brass is a reasonable way to get started if you have a tumbler, media and charles', turtle was.

Looking at offerings I see references to mixed brass, and single head stamp brass which is always a bit higher. I also see references to commercial vs. military headstamp brass.

1. What is the practical effect of using mixed headstamp commercial brass rather than using all Federal, or all Winchester, etc.?

2. Is there a reason to stay away from military brass as opposed to commercial brass.

3. The Lee Loadmaster has a space for a seperate factory crimp die. In Glock 30 shooting .45ACP, is there a particular benefit to having that type of die or is it a waste of time and money?

Thanks for the anticipated responses. This is certainly a learnig process.

Carl

[Mike1951]

1. What is the practical effect of using mixed headstamp commercial brass rather than using all Federal, or all Winchester, etc.?

For handgun practice loads, that is to say loads not approaching maximum, mixed brass isn't an issue. If you were talking precision rifle rounds, folks get downright weird. That is to say keeping brass in the same factory lot, weighing the empty cases, etc.

2. Is there a reason to stay away from military brass as opposed to commercial brass.

Some military brass, and I don't know where this applies, has the primer pocket swaged to hold the primer in. If you can easily punch out the primer, you're good. Otherwise, there are separate tools to remove the swaging. I don't think you'll encounter this with handgun brass, but not sure. Also, capacity can vary so work up loads in batches using the same kind of brass.

3. The Lee Loadmaster has a space for a seperate factory crimp die. In Glock 30 shooting .45ACP, is there a particular benefit to having that type of die or is it a waste of time and money?

A separate crimp die is always better as it allows better control than trying to crimp and seat the bullet at the same time. The Lee factory crimp is good.

[Smokewagon]

Also be aware that there are two types of primer flash holes. Boxer and Berdan. I can never keep 'em straight but one has two flash holes. This one can break your decapper. Mostly military I think.

[CWOOD]

Thanks folks.

So, in summary, if I were to load for practice or local IDPA matches and I use range brass or buy once-fired mixed brass there won't be any issue as long as the brass in in good shape. And in loading for a semi-automatic, the use of afactory crimp die is a good idea.

THANKS!

[Houston1944]

I would recommend using the Lee Factory Crimp die for all your handgun reloads. On straight wall cases such as the 45acp, 9mm, ect, the Lee FCD also gives the brass a second "sizing". Several years ago I would check each of my reloads with a case gage. I would always have a small percentage of 9mm and 45acp that would fail, and sometimes as high as 10% or more of my 38 Super rounds would fail to gage. When the Lee FCD came on the market I switch to using it for the 38 Super. After I checked over 3,000 rounds without a single failure to gage I stopped checking them. That was proof enough for me so I started using the FCD in all my handgun loads.

I do not reload for semi-auto rifles so I do not crimp my rifle loads. I will let one of the AR guru's comment on crimping rifle loads.