newbie brass question

[davidtx]

OK, I got thing a little out of order here. I just couldn't resist dumping all my brass in the tumbler to see how shiny they would turn out. THEN I started reading my Lyman Reloading Handbook...

A couple of issues:
1. Lyman's strongly discourages you from using range brass. I definitely have some third party brass mixed in with mine. I can probably separate most of this out.
2. Lyman's advocates case inspection prior to cleaning

What do the experienced reloaders recommend? Should I throw it all out and buy some new brass?

Lyman's is also big on tracking number of times brass has been used. Do folks really do this, or just rely on case inspection to throw out the old stuff?

These questions are for my primary load of 45 ACP. I'm also going to load 38 special, but I don't have much old brass for it - need to buy some.

[sskimber]

no, do not throw it out, sen it to me, I will make sure it get disposed of properly, I will test it for you several time.

OK seriously, unless the brass has a crack, or is swollen at the bottom (sign of over pressure) I use it. I do however inspect bottle neck cases carefully.
a "low pressure" round like 45 can be reloaded many times without any worry.
if you have any question do not be afraid to ask.
just remember double check you powder charge, and start at the low end of the data.


Kevin

[gfmun]

I use range brass and inspect it after cleaning because its a lot easier then. I do "case gauge" every round that I load. I think paying attention when you are reloading and being careful is more important than how many times you can use range brass. My rule of thumb for .38 Super is " how many times can I find it ? "


George

[MoJo]

I'm going to lose it before it wears out most of the time.

[davidtx]

I use range brass and inspect it after cleaning because its a lot easier then. I do "case gauge" every round that I load. I think paying attention when you are reloading and being careful is more important than how many times you can use range brass. My rule of thumb for .38 Super is " how many times can I find it ? "


George

Do you use a case gauge similar to this (http://tinyurl.com/yh7lzhz) or just calipers?

[longtooth]

All good above. Clean only one caliber at a time. Inspect after cleaning. I load pistol brass until the case splits. Nothing wrong w/ range pickup.
Since I have Range pick up available I have never bought any handgun brass for personal loading.
Most of us do not sort it by headstamp for loading either.

[NcongruNt]

All good above. Clean only one caliber at a time. Inspect after cleaning. I load pistol brass until the case splits. Nothing wrong w/ range pickup.
Since I have Range pick up available I have never bought any handgun brass for personal loading.
Most of us do not sort it by headstamp for loading either.

I do! It bothers me to mix them up. I also have learned which brands I like and which I don't. PPU (Prvi Partizan and Monarch) cases invariably have black sticky goo left behind inside the once-fired cases. They tend to collect tumbler media and are a real pain to clean out afterward.

Plus, I find that it's easy to distinguish my empty cases when I'm shooting Winchester brass. They're the only WIN headstamps with nickel-colored primers (WWB uses brass-colored primers).

Part of it may be that I'm a newbie and I'm trying to control all aspects possible to help me along in my quest for consistency. It also helps me narrow down potential issues or peculiarities with any particular headstamp of brass (such as the PPU mentioned above). Then again, it's part of my nature to categorize and organize things on any perceptible level.

[Mike1951]

I inspect after cleaning using a desk clamped, lighted magnifier.

With revolver rounds, a minor difference in case length just means that your roll crimp may vary. They should function fine.

However, semi-auto rounds that headspace on the case mouth work best if the case length is the same. These are taper crimped and I function test using a chamber guage but the barrel from your firearm may also be used. The loaded round should drop in completely and fall out freely. These calibers I would sort by case length. At some point, you'll want a case trimmer.

Having said that, I discard only when signs of stress appear, usually as the start of a crack in the case mouth or dark discoloration on the body of the case.

[CWOOD]

OK, I got thing a little out of order here. I just couldn't resist dumping all my brass in the tumbler to see how shiny they would turn out. THEN I started reading my Lyman Reloading Handbook...

A couple of issues:
1. Lyman's strongly discourages you from using range brass. I definitely have some third party brass mixed in with mine. I can probably separate most of this out.
2. Lyman's advocates case inspection prior to cleaning

What do the experienced reloaders recommend? Should I throw it all out and buy some new brass?

Lyman's is also big on tracking number of times brass has been used. Do folks really do this, or just rely on case inspection to throw out the old stuff?

These questions are for my primary load of 45 ACP. I'm also going to load 38 special, but I don't have much old brass for it - need to buy some.

Hi, David

Assuming we are talking about lower power, range ammo...like IDPA...

I have found that in loading 45 ammo, it is VERY forgiving and reloadable for a long time if you are staying at the lower end of the power range and using an easy powder like WST...which is also VERY clean. As was mentioned, you will loose them before you wear them out.

When I first started thinking about reloading, I made a committment to myself to try to pick up AT LEAST as much brass as I shoot. I have been able to do that. I got a good deal on once fired brass early on and paid $30 for 5000 pieces. but with what I had already, and subsequently, collected I have never had to dip into that purchase. It is all cleaned, counted and bagged and waiting to go, but I just have not needed it yet...and I am not selling.

In the circumstance described, I have found no problem using pickup cases. If it is split or bulged, or bent too much or even tarnished more than I like, I discard it. I like shiny brass. If it has a stubborn primer crimp, I toss it. The time saved is worth the loss of a case. I don't think you will find much case stretching in a 45. Also if you use a Factory Crimp Die like the one from Lee, you will be assured that the round will chamber easily.

Pick it up, clean it and load it.

Match or other precision ammo or self defense ammo is another matter. Be much more particular and precise and careful. I don't even go there. I buy my SD ammo.

Besides, with all the IDPA rounds you will soon be firing, you need to pickup as much as you can so you can afford your new habit.

I am going to presume that if you want to acquire a bunch of cases early on, there are lots of places to get once fired brass for LOTS less than you will get new brass, with the same functionality as new.

Good luck.

[davidtx]

Thanks for all the feedback. I feel a lot better now. I've been picking up more than I shoot and have a few hundred cases ready to go. I've got some reading to do and my brother is building me a stand for the lock and load like the one shown in this video:

[youtube]http://youtube.com/watch?v=dSr1efcTf5s[/youtube]

I also need to get a few more goodies (like a primer flipper).

[gfmun]

I used the wrong terminology. I use a " chamber gauge " to check the finished rounds. This one...

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/conten ... r_Checkers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

George

[OldSchool]

1. Lyman's strongly discourages you from using range brass. I definitely have some third party brass mixed in with mine. I can probably separate most of this out.
2. Lyman's advocates case inspection prior to cleaning

What do the experienced reloaders recommend? Should I throw it all out and buy some new brass?

Lyman's is also big on tracking number of times brass has been used. Do folks really do this, or just rely on case inspection to throw out the old stuff?

These questions are for my primary load of 45 ACP. I'm also going to load 38 special, but I don't have much old brass for it - need to buy some.

David, please let us add to your questions to the group, since you and we seem to be at the same point. We have just recently been convinced to start reloading for our starving rifles (it's hard to listen to them whimper for food).

I also ran across those recommendations in the Lyman manual yesterday, and that concerned me (we have a fair amount of scavenged brass already). They seem nearly impossible for the typical range rat.

I gather from the answers here that the (soft? ) 45 ACP is very forgiving of multiple reloadings. While we use 45 ACP more than anything else at the moment, our other handguns (.357 mag) and rifles (30-30, 30-06) use a bit more pressure. For those kinds of loads, how far do other folks go in following those Lyman recommendations? Is it really just a matter of watching for "bright rings" and cracks, rather than numbering and tracking each case (just kidding)? (Of course, no Al or Fe.)