They're coming for your Air Conditioners!

[03Lightningrocks]

My A/C/Heat unit has to be over 20 years old, and except for minor repairs has worked. I know that it's just a matter of time (probably short) before it goes out, and I will replace everything at that time, or before. Trouble is, I don't know anything about the modern units, as in tonnage, seer ratings, etc. or just what gets replaced when getting a new "system" I assume that included the gas furnace too. My home is only 1450 sq. ft. I'd be interested in feedback.

We have design consultants that will come to your home and check for proper sizing, tell you all about the options and choices in effeciency's and leave you with pricing on those options. We offer this service at no charge. We will spend all the time you want to spend answering any questions you may have. Of coarse our hope is that after comparing our design consultant with the people other companies send out, you will realize we will provide you the most professional service and honor us with your business. I can promise you this, the quality of our installations are second to none.

[03Lightningrocks]

I gather it's illegal for a homeowner to buy the equipment and supplies, and service his own equipment? That gauge header can't be that expensive. With three units, it'd pay for itself.

I can't fathom how it would be illegal ... but law makers can be a sneaky bunch. Maybe some of the suppliers don't like to sell to "the public" but I doubt it's illegal. Check the internet.

I seem to recall hearing that you need a license to do any HVAC work that might result in a release of refrigerant. That would be enforced by requiring a license to buy the refrigerant, and possibly the metering tools. But I don't know that for a fact.

LOL... I don't think it was meant to corner the market. sjfcontrol has it right, it is an EPA regulation that began in 1993. The idea was to reduce the damage being done to the Ozone layer by refrigerants through proper training and certification. GOOGLE Montreal Protocal for further information.

[G26ster]

My A/C/Heat unit has to be over 20 years old, and except for minor repairs has worked. I know that it's just a matter of time (probably short) before it goes out, and I will replace everything at that time, or before. Trouble is, I don't know anything about the modern units, as in tonnage, seer ratings, etc. or just what gets replaced when getting a new "system" I assume that included the gas furnace too. My home is only 1450 sq. ft. I'd be interested in feedback.

We have design consultants that will come to your home and check for proper sizing, tell you all about the options and choices in effeciency's and leave you with pricing on those options. We offer this service at no charge. We will spend all the time you want to spend answering any questions you may have. Of coarse our hope is that after comparing our design consultant with the people other companies send out, you will realize we will provide you the most professional service and honor us with your business. I can promise you this, the quality of our installations are second to none.

PM sent

[pbwalker]

03Lightningrocks - Slightly related, but I'm in a 1600 sq/ft home with roughly 10 registers. According to the energy analysis we had done, they hit the duct work with IR cameras and found that we're losing about 20% of air because of the old ductwork. I want to replace it.

All that being said, is this a DIY type of job for someone who is somewhat handy, or best left to the professionals? Any idea what something like this may run? Do you do any work in the Spring Branch / New Braunfels area? :-)

[03Lightningrocks]

03Lightningrocks - Slightly related, but I'm in a 1600 sq/ft home with roughly 10 registers. According to the energy analysis we had done, they hit the duct work with IR cameras and found that we're losing about 20% of air because of the old ductwork. I want to replace it.

All that being said, is this a DIY type of job for someone who is somewhat handy, or best left to the professionals? Any idea what something like this may run? Do you do any work in the Spring Branch / New Braunfels area? :-)

Is your existing duct sheet metal or flex? 20% sounds extreme to me. Are the ducts damaged?

To answer your question about doing it yourself. Yes you can. If you are replacing the ducts with the same sizes your removing, just do it one run/duct at a time so you don't get confused about what duct goes where. Unless your pretty fit, it is not a good job for the warmer months. There are some tricks to doing it right. You don't want to end up with more air leaking than you had before you replaced it.

Flex comes in a couple R values. 4.6 , 6 or 8. If you are replacing flex duct, replace it with an R8. It is not that much more expensive and gives better efficiency.

If it is metal duct, I would recommend you just seal the connections with mastic and rewrap the installation on it.


We don't get out your way. Pricing from one area to the next will vary, depending on the expenses involved in doing business in the area.

[pbwalker]

03Lightningrocks - Slightly related, but I'm in a 1600 sq/ft home with roughly 10 registers. According to the energy analysis we had done, they hit the duct work with IR cameras and found that we're losing about 20% of air because of the old ductwork. I want to replace it.

All that being said, is this a DIY type of job for someone who is somewhat handy, or best left to the professionals? Any idea what something like this may run? Do you do any work in the Spring Branch / New Braunfels area? :-)

Is your existing duct sheet metal or flex? 20% sounds extreme to me. Are the ducts damaged?

To answer your question about doing it yourself. Yes you can. If you are replacing the ducts with the same sizes your removing, just do it one run/duct at a time so you don't get confused about what duct goes where. Unless your pretty fit, it is not a good job for the warmer months. There are some tricks to doing it right. You don't want to end up with more air leaking than you had before you replaced it.

Flex comes in a couple R values. 4.6 , 6 or 8. If you are replacing flex duct, replace it with an R8. It is not that much more expensive and gives better efficiency.

If it is metal duct, I would recommend you just seal the connections with mastic and rewrap the installation on it.


We don't get out your way. Pricing from one area to the next will vary, depending on the expenses involved in doing business in the area.

Thanks for the info! It's old flex. One of the ducts was even split, and I had to replace it. I have no idea if I did a good enough job. Zip ties and mastic were all I used. The more I think about it, I'd probably prefer the piece of mind of a pro doing it.

Thanks again!

[WildBill]

you have to have a license under e.p.a section 608 to purchase refrigerants. to get the license you have to take a test - the test costs 30-50 dollars. most places offer a studyguide and test for 100-150 check out epa test .com a manifold will run you 30-300 dollars, but a good manual yellowjacket is all you need for r22, should be 50 bucks or so with good hoses.
the skills to safely use it? thats up to you. You need to know the ambient air temp to determine the proper charge pressure, its not rocket science but you need to keep in mind that there is some danger associated with freon - including asphyxia, frostbite, destroying your very expensive ac unit and other bad crap.

I would have thought that a "normal" certified HVAC technician would already know this stuff. Maybe the guy who worked on my AC had his OSHA license. I didn't ask.

[Diesel42]

Sorry, I can't resist the temptation.....

Wouldn't this be a job for Duct Tape?


Happy Trails! N

Thanks for the info! It's old flex. One of the ducts was even split, and I had to replace it. I have no idea if I did a good enough job. Zip ties and mastic were all I used. The more I think about it, I'd probably prefer the piece of mind of a pro doing it.

Thanks again!

[03Lightningrocks]

you have to have a license under e.p.a section 608 to purchase refrigerants. to get the license you have to take a test - the test costs 30-50 dollars. most places offer a studyguide and test for 100-150 check out epa test .com a manifold will run you 30-300 dollars, but a good manual yellowjacket is all you need for r22, should be 50 bucks or so with good hoses.
the skills to safely use it? thats up to you. You need to know the ambient air temp to determine the proper charge pressure, its not rocket science but you need to keep in mind that there is some danger associated with freon - including asphyxia, frostbite, destroying your very expensive ac unit and other bad crap.

I would have thought that a "normal" certified HVAC technician would already know this stuff. Maybe the guy who worked on my AC had his OSHA license. I didn't ask.

Most do know they are required to have EPA certification. BTW... I noticed you used the word certified. Certified technician is not the same as a licensed and insured contractor.

[03Lightningrocks]

Sorry, I can't resist the temptation.....

Wouldn't this be a job for Duct Tape?


Happy Trails! N

Thanks for the info! It's old flex. One of the ducts was even split, and I had to replace it. I have no idea if I did a good enough job. Zip ties and mastic were all I used. The more I think about it, I'd probably prefer the piece of mind of a pro doing it.

Thanks again!

Speaking from personal experience. Everything is a job for duct tape.

[03Lightningrocks]

Going to wafflehouse for the seven dollar breakfast special. I know... I know... I could buy enough eggs to make breakfast for a couple weeks for the same price but figured I would let the pros handle the cooking this morning.

[Blindref757]

We replaced our entire unit and air handler (coils) last summer. We had a 10 seer, upgraded to a 13 seer and the electric bill went from $350 to $140 in the summer. At that rate, I'll recover the $4800 I spent in about 3 years. I also installed a thermostatically controlled attic vent that runs from about 10 am until about 8 pm. This pulls 140* air out of my attic and pulls in 90* air from my soffit vents which allows my coils to work more efficiently and reducing the heat loss in my ducts. My house is cool all the time! It is worth it to repace a 10 yr old unit with today's new high-efficiency units.

[WildBill]

you have to have a license under e.p.a section 608 to purchase refrigerants. to get the license you have to take a test - the test costs 30-50 dollars. most places offer a studyguide and test for 100-150 check out epa test .com a manifold will run you 30-300 dollars, but a good manual yellowjacket is all you need for r22, should be 50 bucks or so with good hoses.
the skills to safely use it? thats up to you. You need to know the ambient air temp to determine the proper charge pressure, its not rocket science but you need to keep in mind that there is some danger associated with freon - including asphyxia, frostbite, destroying your very expensive ac unit and other bad crap.

I would have thought that a "normal" certified HVAC technician would already know this stuff. Maybe the guy who worked on my AC had his OSHA license. I didn't ask.

Most do know they are required to have EPA certification. BTW... I noticed you used the word certified. Certified technician is not the same as a licensed and insured contractor.

I did use the wrong word. I did not know that a person needed a license to install or repair A/C units.