Cleaning tips for the new guy.
Cleaning tips for the new guy.
Any of yall got any advice for a new guy. I have cleaned my weapon on the first day that I shot it and I think I did a good job. But I was wondering what gun oil, Barrel swabs, etc. that yall use. I think what I have at the moment it cheap stuff but I dont want to keep using it just cause it's what I have. Want to use what works not what's cheap. Thanks in advance.
Wildscar
"Far Better it is to dare mighty things than to take rank with those poor, timid spirits who know neither victory nor defeat." Theodore Roosevelt 1899
Beretta 92FS
Holster Review Resource
Project One Million:Texas - Click here and Join NRA Today!

"Far Better it is to dare mighty things than to take rank with those poor, timid spirits who know neither victory nor defeat." Theodore Roosevelt 1899
Beretta 92FS
Holster Review Resource
Project One Million:Texas - Click here and Join NRA Today!

I use CLP to clean/lubricate and 3x3 shotgun (cotton) patches (outers I think).
I have a complete Deluxe cleaning kit and rifle stand at home but mostly clean my handguns using a kit I purchased at walmart for 5 bucks that packs rod and brushes in handle that I took out all brushes except 45 and 9mm and added jagd tip pushs ends for 45 and 9. that plus a toothbrush, patches, screwdrivers and hex wrench and a squeeze bottle of CLP are in my range bag.
I have a complete Deluxe cleaning kit and rifle stand at home but mostly clean my handguns using a kit I purchased at walmart for 5 bucks that packs rod and brushes in handle that I took out all brushes except 45 and 9mm and added jagd tip pushs ends for 45 and 9. that plus a toothbrush, patches, screwdrivers and hex wrench and a squeeze bottle of CLP are in my range bag.
Reasonable gun control is hitting your target with the first shot.
- jbirds1210
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3368
- Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 5:36 pm
- Location: Texas City, Texas
Hello friend-
My advice is that sometimes less is more. The gun does not have to be sterile to function properly.
Jeremae's idea of a cleaning kit is similar to what I use. Just purchase the kit at Wal-Mart and be sucked into whatever product has the best advertising and convinces you that nothing is better. Add and take away from the kit as you see fit. Old T-shirts are what I use as patches. CLP is surely a good choice for oil....I prefer RB17 for cleaning the barrel and Militec1 for lube. THere are as many opinions on this as there are members
Likely all of them are correct.
A dear friend once told me that he knew he was an "overluber" when he had to wipe his glasses off after the first cycling of the slide! LOL. If you find yourself doing that....you might use a bit less. Below is a link I found with some good basic information. Enjoy.
http://www.custompistols.com/bengtson/a ... andgun.htm
My advice is that sometimes less is more. The gun does not have to be sterile to function properly.
Jeremae's idea of a cleaning kit is similar to what I use. Just purchase the kit at Wal-Mart and be sucked into whatever product has the best advertising and convinces you that nothing is better. Add and take away from the kit as you see fit. Old T-shirts are what I use as patches. CLP is surely a good choice for oil....I prefer RB17 for cleaning the barrel and Militec1 for lube. THere are as many opinions on this as there are members
A dear friend once told me that he knew he was an "overluber" when he had to wipe his glasses off after the first cycling of the slide! LOL. If you find yourself doing that....you might use a bit less. Below is a link I found with some good basic information. Enjoy.
http://www.custompistols.com/bengtson/a ... andgun.htm
NRA Life Member
TSRA Life Member
"No man stands so tall as when he stoops to help a child."
TSRA Life Member
"No man stands so tall as when he stoops to help a child."
Thanks for the advice guys.
Wildscar
"Far Better it is to dare mighty things than to take rank with those poor, timid spirits who know neither victory nor defeat." Theodore Roosevelt 1899
Beretta 92FS
Holster Review Resource
Project One Million:Texas - Click here and Join NRA Today!

"Far Better it is to dare mighty things than to take rank with those poor, timid spirits who know neither victory nor defeat." Theodore Roosevelt 1899
Beretta 92FS
Holster Review Resource
Project One Million:Texas - Click here and Join NRA Today!

- Charles L. Cotton
- Site Admin
- Posts: 17788
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:31 pm
- Location: Friendswood, TX
- Contact:
My typical "gun cleaning" on my pistols might not even include a bore scrub/swab.
With semi-autos, I'll wipe the powder residue off the slide rails, barrel, frame rails, and anywhere build-up would interfere with the function of the firearm. With revolvers, I'll scrub (sometimes intensely) the cylinder faces, wipe the residue out of the cylinder window in the frame, and scrub the forcing cone. I'll also usually swab out the chambers on revolvers.
One out of five times I might run a brush and a few patches down the bore. Since I shoot mainly jacketed ammo, not lead slugs, lead fouling isn't anywhere nearly the same level of concern as powder fouling in the action. As long as the bore is clear, with visibly sharp rifling, I don't worry about it. My most used brushes are "toothbrush-shaped" brass-bristled brushes that I use for scrubbing down flat surfaces such as slide rails and cylinder faces. For patches, I prefer cotton cloth, but I've been known to grab paper towel on occasion...
I'll use whatever solvents/oil is available. Everything I've tried has worked well, but my mainstay is Hoppes 9 (mainly 'caue I've got a pint-sized bottle of the stuff). For oil, I'll use Outers, Hoppes, or whatever's available (I've even used sewing machine oil), but I've learned not to drench the gun, as it can trap powder residue and (with semi-autos) slings gunk all over my face while shooting.
If I'm putting the gun away for a while, I'll use Gun Sheath spray. On the rare occasion I have to deal with bad rust (old mil-surp rifles), Break-Free CLP is invaluable.
With semi-autos, I'll wipe the powder residue off the slide rails, barrel, frame rails, and anywhere build-up would interfere with the function of the firearm. With revolvers, I'll scrub (sometimes intensely) the cylinder faces, wipe the residue out of the cylinder window in the frame, and scrub the forcing cone. I'll also usually swab out the chambers on revolvers.
One out of five times I might run a brush and a few patches down the bore. Since I shoot mainly jacketed ammo, not lead slugs, lead fouling isn't anywhere nearly the same level of concern as powder fouling in the action. As long as the bore is clear, with visibly sharp rifling, I don't worry about it. My most used brushes are "toothbrush-shaped" brass-bristled brushes that I use for scrubbing down flat surfaces such as slide rails and cylinder faces. For patches, I prefer cotton cloth, but I've been known to grab paper towel on occasion...

I'll use whatever solvents/oil is available. Everything I've tried has worked well, but my mainstay is Hoppes 9 (mainly 'caue I've got a pint-sized bottle of the stuff). For oil, I'll use Outers, Hoppes, or whatever's available (I've even used sewing machine oil), but I've learned not to drench the gun, as it can trap powder residue and (with semi-autos) slings gunk all over my face while shooting.
If I'm putting the gun away for a while, I'll use Gun Sheath spray. On the rare occasion I have to deal with bad rust (old mil-surp rifles), Break-Free CLP is invaluable.

I make and use Ed's Red for cleaning fouling out of old milsurp barrels, and otherwise getting down into the nooks and crannies. As a penetrant, it's on par with Kroil.Charles L. Cotton wrote:Here is a link to something I call the Ed's Red Bath. The photos are on the 3rd page.
That's why you should be cautious about using too much Ed's Red, and be sure to clean it off well before lubricating. It will penetrate primers and foul your powder.
Kevin