Coffee table project.

[68Charger]

My gf wanted to redo her coffee table of a different color. I sanded it, primed it, sanded it again (lightly) and now I spray painted it ... purple. Yes, purple. So right now it just has one coat of primer, and 2 coats of purple, high gloss, spray paint. She wants to add a clear coating on top to help with the durability of the table so it doesn't stain, chip, etc. Just the top. My question is, what is the best way to do this? What do I use? What tools?

I have some polyurethane and some polycrylic. I don't know if that's the same stuff? I also have some spray that is made for a 'clear finish'. Is that the same thing? Will I have any problems getting the stuff on? What should I look out for? Will it look uneven? Is the finish going to ruin the original purple on there?

ANY feedback would be appreciated. Sorry, I'm just typing all the things that are popping out of my head so I don't forget what to ask. Thanks so much in advance, fellas.

Here is a pic of what I'm working with.

[SQLGeek]

I've only refinished a table surface once so this is mostly anecdotal on my end. My wife had a natural wood desk she wanted me to cover with a protectant that maintain the wood's original color. I used Minwax Polycrylic from Home Depot.

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/int ... ive-finish" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I applied the finish in two coats with a higher quality synthetic bristle brush, pre sanding with a lower grit sand paper and then finishing with a fine grit between finishes. Being a natural wood, it did darken just a touch but the final result was good. It repelled water well and made the surface much easier to clean.

[RHenriksen]

I've used a liquid polyurethane, applied with a high quality synthetic brush, on a maple workbench top. The challenge w. poly is to avoid air bubbles that can result in blemishes in the finish. Stir, don't shake, the can prior to application. Didn't get it 100% perfect, but then it was a reloading workbench, not a coffee table.

[68Charger]

I hear using a brush would cause lines in the end result. I heard using a sponge brush to do it. I'm not sure..

[Divided Attention]

25 years ago I refinished a draw leaf table. The final 4 coats were brush on polyurethane - I used a brush, sanded with fine steel wool between coats, it turned out well. The table has survived 2 kids, glue, glitter, permanent markers, paint etc. It all washed or buffed out - still looks good!

[68Charger]

So.. was this table already spray painted? Was it just bare wood?

I'm looking for a bit of knowledge on how a table would look with pre existing paint on there. Like mine that already has spray paint purple gloss stuff. If it's just polyurethane on bare wood, then it really doesn't help me much. :/

[jimlongley]

In 1970 I refinished a kitchen drop leaf table using multiple coats of polyurethane brushed on and sanded between coats. For a final coat I used progressively finer grades of sandpaper, steel wool, and pumice and rottenstone to remove lingering brush marks, and then a good wax.

That table survived 15 years in that very busy kitchen, was replaced in 1985 when we moved to a new house, and relegated to use as a hobby/sewing table. After 8 years of that it traveled to Chicago with us (second wife, first passed away) where it saw similar service in a basement, then to Texas where it became a garage table, and finally to our latest home in Texas where it serves as a pet room food table.

The table was originally a wedding gift to my first wife's parents in 193? and it saw rough service before it was handed down to us in 1970.

The top surface could be rejuvenated with a quick sanding, maybe one coat of polyurethane and a waxing.

I really like my polyurethane.

[68Charger]

I put three coats of polyurethane on it. It's three in the morning we'll see how it turns out tomorrow morning! Thanks so much guys! I couldn't have done it without y'all!