Can I get some feedback on STI pistols?

age_ranger · Post by **age_ranger** » Tue May 29, 2007 10:57 pm

I'm considering an STI for IDPA and have been looking at the Eagle model as well as the Spartan. I've seen countless people having to strip the mag out of their 1911 and seen alot of jams with them. I'm 1911 stoopid, so please bear with me. I know there's a break in period, but how many rounds is it? 500ish?

Right now I'm shooting a Beretta PX4 in SSP and it's great. Never a malfunction and it's run 100%. I just don't shoot it accurately at longer distances and think a 1911 might fix this for me. I know I'd have to change divisions, but that's ok to me too. Any inputs are greatly appreciated.

Post by **carlson1** » Tue May 29, 2007 11:01 pm

I am not an IDPA shooter, but I have never an STI that I shot and kept. They say the brink in around 300-500, but the ones I had always - ALWAYS failed to into battery, or double fed. I am sure someone else has had bad Kimbers and Colts, but I will not buy another STI. For information I had the BLS in 9mm (they no longer make); Ranger (in .45 and 9mm); and a Trojan in .45.

GrandmasterB · Post by **GrandmasterB** » Tue May 29, 2007 11:36 pm

STI makes fine guns and their customer service is great. The Eagle in .40 S&W would be a good gun for IDPA ESP division and you could also shoot Limited or Limited 10 in USPSA with it. The Spartan single stacks are getting rave reviews from competition shooters. Check out http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.p ... opic=42054 for lots of competition shooter feedback on the Spartan.

extremist · Post by **extremist** » Wed May 30, 2007 7:06 am

I would be glad to let you shoot one of my 1911s at Elm Fork some weekend just let me know so I can bring it. As for STI, I have none. I can't comment on the double stack Eagle, but as for the STI Spartan, I would recommend you look at the SW1911s, or if you want to spend more money, the Les Baer pistols.

You've never seen me having any issues with my 1911s in .45

And NONE of them required a "break-in" period.

Now, my Springfield EMP - I'm still breakin' it in - feeding problems are gone, but my magazines don't drop easily. I may have to figure out how to remedy that

James

age_ranger · Post by **age_ranger** » Wed May 30, 2007 7:15 am

I totally forgot about the "extremest" pistol!! Always impressive what you get outta that little thing!!!!! LOL.....sorry about that. I'd like to check out a 1911 when we get the chance. I've heard great things about the S&W's and Les Baer. I think I'm going to have to get into the 1911 forum to get educated on them. Guess I better start my homework now. This could take a while, but it's always alot of fun.

DrKyle1 · Post by **DrKyle1** » Wed May 30, 2007 7:38 pm

STI's are great guns... once broken in & worked over! Please don't do the "I paid X amount & it doesn't run like a dream out of the box." I am currently breaking in a Trojan (no pun intended) in 9mm for ESP. I am going to run 1000 rounds through & then send it to a guy in the valley to work over. Good luck!

age_ranger · Post by **age_ranger** » Wed May 30, 2007 9:11 pm

Seems to me that alot of 1911's require a good break in period. I know to some this is acceptable, but my $400 Beretta PX4 has been 100% out of the box and 6000 rounds later......never a jam, never a malfunction. What makes the 1911's need a break in period? Is it because the parts are fit to such tight tolerances? Pardon my ignorance, I'm still learning. I know I've heard "I paid $1000 dollars for a jamming paperweight" before.......If that what it takes, I'm willing to break that sucker in right! Just trying to get educated. Thanks in advance.

KBCraig · Post by **KBCraig** » Thu May 31, 2007 3:07 am

age_ranger wrote:Seems to me that alot of 1911's require a good break in period. I know to some this is acceptable, but my $400 Beretta PX4 has been 100% out of the box and 6000 rounds later......never a jam, never a malfunction. What makes the 1911's need a break in period? Is it because the parts are fit to such tight tolerances?

Part of it is the difference in manufacturing methods. All 1911s are still made by taking a big hunk of steel, and milling away everything that doesn't look like a pistol. They have a break-in period, just like all fine tools and machines. Polymer/steel hybrids like your PX4 are more forgiving. The leave the factory at their peak; they'll be consistent, but they'll never improve.

If I buy an Accord or Camry, I expect to drive it off the lot and have worry-free, if unexciting, driving for at least a couple of hundred thousand miles so long as I give it proper routine maintenance. But if I buy a Ferrari... I expect a break-in period, plus a rigorous maintenance routine.

Performance has its price!

Kevin

extremist · Post by **extremist** » Thu May 31, 2007 6:43 am

It is interesting to hear the apologists tell how their brand of 1911 requires a break-in because it's such a precision piece of machinery (like a Ferrari

).

Now the only 1911 I've ever bought that has not functioned 100% from shot 1 has been my Springfield EMP. I've pretty much concluded that it didn't need so much of a "break-in" period as "it didn't like +P ammo nor Gold Dot hollowpoints". Some have criticized me for excusing it's ammo finickiness, but let's face it - every gun you own is not going to function 100% with EVERY type of ammo you try. My EMP has been 100% since I stopped using +P 124gr Gold Dot ammo period.

Now, as for my other 1911s in the originally intended .45ACP - EVERY ONE has been 100% out of the box no break in period at all. My Les Baer Thunder Ranch which was so hard to RACK THE SLIDE it was so tight out of the box has been 100% perfect since round 1. I thought "okay this is so tight it's going to be jam city" and I was wrong.

My SW1911s (I own several and have shot 6 of them) while not so tight you couldn't rack the slide when they were new, have all been perfect since round 1.

Every Walther, HK, Beretta, Sig, and Kahr I own has been 100% since round 1. So I'm with you age_ranger - why should 1911s need a break-in period to function 100%?

Sounds like an excuse

age_ranger, come on over to http://forums.1911forum.com and read all the comments there. Another good forum to research 1911s on is http://forum.m1911.org

Regards,
James

DrKyle1 · Post by **DrKyle1** » Thu May 31, 2007 10:27 am

extremist wrote:
Sounds like an excuse

To be quite honest... that is why I am working on my ESP gun & shooting a Glock in SSP!!

Stephen A. Camp · Post by **Stephen A. Camp** » Thu May 31, 2007 10:45 am

Hello. The only STI's I own are Trojans in 9mm, 38 Super and .45 ACP and one Legacy. All have worked fine from the get-go, though the Super with other than FMJ was extremely picky about JHP's from a full magazine be they handloaded or factory. I went to .38 Super Comp cases in handloads and no more problems whatsoever. The .45's and 9mm have never stuttered, as in zero malfunctions.

Best.

Jeremae · Post by **Jeremae** » Thu May 31, 2007 2:40 pm

I have been thinking about a 38 Super 1911 for an ESP gun. What do you mean by "38 Super Comp Case"?

Stephen A. Camp · Post by **Stephen A. Camp** » Thu May 31, 2007 3:47 pm

Hello. For me, reloading the 38 Super is the only way to afford to shoot it. I use the Starline 38 Super Comp case. It is a rimless case like 9mm rather than the semi-rimmed 38 Super. In some guns, this little rim can cause the cartridge to tip downward; in others there seems to be no problem.

You can see these cases at http://www.starlinebrass.com

Best.