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I agree...if you're after absolute muzzle velocity and energy revolvers win. They simply have more case volume to put more bang powder in.CC Italian wrote:Case capacity is what the semi autos can't make up for.
Thanks for the data.CC Italian wrote:Well those who know me from my more active days on the board know I love and shoot the 10mm alot. I have chronographed and hunted small-medium size game with my glock 20sf with 6inch factory barrel . Also, i have recovered or fired into old phonebooks (yes they are still good for something) several of the hollwpoint rounds just to see if and how they performed. A basic test on my part.
Here are some reccomended carry loads i have found to be the best for a given situation.
Low recoil carry loads
Hornady 165 critical defense
Federal hydra shok 180(very low end power for 10mm but still a hot 40 in fps)
Hornady 155 xtp (very accurate load)
They are all low recoil and very accurate loads. All except the Federal load are still better in fps than any 40 load of same barrel length.
Mid range power but still low recoil loads imo
Hornady 180xtp (great all around load)
Winchester 175 silvertip
Midrange- high end power
Basically all Corbon and Double Tap loads. I don't carry any of them anymore. To expensive and there is better perfoming loads for cheaper.
Buffalo bore and underwood
Max charge 10mm. Underwood is just as good and cheaper.
While i do like Gold dots the bullet was not meant to run at these speeds.jacket separation is common in 4.5 and longer barrels. With your 3.8 barrel the 165 GD might stay together in a underwood load.
If you run full power 10mm in a hollowpoint i would stay with xtp, nosler or barnes all copper. They all perform better at higher speeds in any grain.
Woods carry
For max penatration look no further than the 220 hardcast from underwood. Like the energizer bunny it keeps going. Expect 45-60 inches of penatration.
180-200Xtp, 200 nosler in any companies loading in a hp round. I carry the 200xtp Hornady factory. It is slower but it penetrates better than most and still expands some. 20-25 inches.
For cheaper but still good power 10mm for practice look at Armscor or Georgia arms in 180 GRAIN.
Hope this helps some, 10MM is a great and versatile round in a semi auto. Imo it is the best do it all round in a semi auto that is mass produced by several firearms companies.
Thanks for the detailed reply.CC Italian wrote:No, you don't have to. You will hear a lot of stuff about you have to change recoil springs and barrels. I have put thousands of hot underwood ammo down range and have never had any problems. If you want to add a Wolf spring or one like that you can. I have never had a cycling problem with the stock spring but some have had problems cycling weaker ammo once you put in a 22lb+ spring. I will say that the recoil springs get worn out quicker though with the 10mm hot loads. I replace mine ever 3000 or so rounds. They are cheap and like all things Glock easy to replace. I might split the difference and eventually get a 20lb spring but since I carry by Glock 20 for SD sometimes I don't like to run alot of aftermarket springs.
As for barrels some of the after market barrels like kkm and lone wolf give you a little more chamber support but the myth that your Glock is going to go boom with hot loaded 10mm is rubbish and I pick up all my 10mm brass and have never seen signs of over pressure in underwood ammo and plan to have it reloaded when I get to 10,000 or so pieces. Almost there:). The ill informed get that from the .40 S&W Glocks when people run over pressured rounds. The 40 S&W in 2nd and 3rd gen glocks have little case support. So if you are running over pressured rounds you get kaboom.4th gen supposedly have a little more support.
This doesn't apply to the 10mm. If it is within Saami specs that it is fine. Underwood and Buffalo bore are at max and Tim Sundles and Kevin Underwood have both said many times that there 10mm is safe in all stock barrel 10mm Glocks.
You might get a few fps more from an aftermarket barrel of the same length but nothing huge. Also, you DONT need an after market barrel to run hardcast or gas checked rounds. Here is the link that explains that https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l ... _list&c=59
These guys have a lot of parts to look at if you want to modify your 10mm. I have bought sights and other goodies for my Glocks from them before. https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Default.aspx
I'm not sure which test you're referring to, I'm assuming the FBI? Given that back in that timeframe it was not velocity that was the problem, it was bullet construction. Today bullets are vastly better designed and constructed.johncanfield wrote:Interesting article. I wonder how the .357 Sig would have fared in that test at that point in time.
It took me less than two magazines to become competent with a 10mm.jmra wrote:Honestly IMHO, 10MM is a poor selection for SD regardless of what round you select. When the Feds went to the 10MM after the fiasco in Miami they quickly learned that no matter how much time their agents spent on the range they could not place multiple rapid fired shots within an acceptable pattern due to the recoil of the 10MM round. This resulted in a request for less powder in the round. SW realized that with less powder a shorter casing could be used along with a shorter framed gun. Welcome the .40 SW round.
My point is this, if Federal agents who had access to unlimited range time and ammo couldn't master the 10MM round I doubt many without those resources can. Remember, it's a lot more about shot placement than it is the round being used.
