diving into casting
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diving into casting
Not finding exactly what I want in stock to feed the 460 Rowland (230gr cast fp), I ordered a bunch of stuff
to start casting my own:
Lee Pro 4 20lb furnace
1lb ingot mold
Frankfort flux compound
ladle
Lee mold
what else do I need?
Any recommended sources of lead ingots besides Rotometals (mail order) or anywhere local
in the Austin area?
I need an alloy (Lyman #2?) that will handle ~1300fps out of a 5" 1911.
thanks.
to start casting my own:
Lee Pro 4 20lb furnace
1lb ingot mold
Frankfort flux compound
ladle
Lee mold
what else do I need?
Any recommended sources of lead ingots besides Rotometals (mail order) or anywhere local
in the Austin area?
I need an alloy (Lyman #2?) that will handle ~1300fps out of a 5" 1911.
thanks.
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Re: diving into casting
Griz44 used to have a LOT of lead ingots. Which reminds me, I need to nag him again, now that "casting weather" is here 

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Re: diving into casting
Check into local tire shops and see what they charge if any for wheelweights..
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Re: diving into casting
Man, that's a mess in itself. Unless you take joy in melting, cleaning, fluxing, then repeating ad nauseum, you would be better off finding a source that has already made some pure lead ingots for ya. Just my $0.02. I reckon I'm lazyReloader wrote:Check into local tire shops and see what they charge if any for wheelweights..

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Re: diving into casting
+1 on the Lee lube-size kit to get started.
I'd return the Frankford flux -- totally not needed. You can use anything with carbon. I've used sawdust, candles, old turpentine, used motor oil . . .
You can also return the ingot mold. If you are buying your ingots, there is really no need. At the end of the casting session, simply leave what you have in your pot to harden there. There is no need for an ingot mold unless you are creating ingots.
I create ingots, but only when I am melting down wheelweights. Even at that, I simply use some old muffin tins from the thrift store. Once I am casting, I never create ingots.
Get the Lyman thermometer or equivalent. The bullshot sprue lube is also good to have.
I'd return the Frankford flux -- totally not needed. You can use anything with carbon. I've used sawdust, candles, old turpentine, used motor oil . . .
You can also return the ingot mold. If you are buying your ingots, there is really no need. At the end of the casting session, simply leave what you have in your pot to harden there. There is no need for an ingot mold unless you are creating ingots.
I create ingots, but only when I am melting down wheelweights. Even at that, I simply use some old muffin tins from the thrift store. Once I am casting, I never create ingots.
Get the Lyman thermometer or equivalent. The bullshot sprue lube is also good to have.
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Re: diving into casting
That is what casting is all about, or have I been doing it wrong for 40 years?lkd wrote:Man, that's a mess in itself. Unless you take joy in melting, cleaning, fluxing, then repeating ad nauseum, you would be better off finding a source that has already made some pure lead ingots for ya. Just my $0.02. I reckon I'm lazyReloader wrote:Check into local tire shops and see what they charge if any for wheelweights..
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Re: diving into casting
thanks guys.
I forgot to mention that I did get a Lee size/lube kit.
I forgot to mention that I did get a Lee size/lube kit.
That's what I'm thinking. we're taking 1300fps and 40k psi & the other calibre I would likely cast for is a 44mag rifle.Lyman #2 is my favorite alloy if I can get it (apart from straight wheelweights), but at the pressures/velocities you're speaking of, I'm wondering if Hardball might not be a better alloy
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Re: diving into casting
When I am loading maximum .44 Mag loads, I cast a gas-checked bullet design. They take a little longer to make, but I am very pleased with the results. For example, if I am going lighter weight for more speed, I'll cast the Lyman 429215, a Ray Thompson gas-checked design. Mine will cast out at 234 gr (with the gas check) using wheelweight plus added tin, and I'll get 1550 fps from a 8 3/8" barrel.ghostrider wrote:thanks guys.
I forgot to mention that I did get a Lee size/lube kit.
That's what I'm thinking. we're taking 1300fps and 40k psi & the other calibre I would likely cast for is a 44mag rifle.Lyman #2 is my favorite alloy if I can get it (apart from straight wheelweights), but at the pressures/velocities you're speaking of, I'm wondering if Hardball might not be a better alloy
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This froggie ain't boiling! Shall not be infringed! Μολών Λαβέ
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Re: diving into casting
I found a place close by that will sell me their wheelweights, so I'll be looking at making ingotsCheck into local tire shops and see what they charge if any for wheelweights..
and possibly duplicate the hardball alloy.
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Re: diving into casting
The mold isn't any more expensive than any other mold. But the gas checks do add measurably to the cost -- about $3.60 per hundred, or about 30% of my total cost.AndyC wrote:Shooting Hardball alloy might be cheaper than buying gas-checks and a fancy mold.....
-Just call me Bob . . . Texas Firearms Coalition, NRA Life member, TSRA Life member, and OFCC Patron member
This froggie ain't boiling! Shall not be infringed! Μολών Λαβέ
This froggie ain't boiling! Shall not be infringed! Μολών Λαβέ
Re: diving into casting
You will probably need a old cookie sheet and wax paper for the Lee Alox coated boolits. I use beeswax for flux but I recently read that sawdust is the most effective fluxing material. Do you have a fan, eye protection, a sturdy round piece of wood to hit the sprue plate, a little metal bowl to catch the lead that drips from the Lee melting pot (at times), and heavy gloves?
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